"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 19:42:02 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:
"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
...
If your present wire welder won't weld sheetmetal without burning holes,
there may be something wrong with the welder or your
methods/techniques..
examine both closely.
You don't say if you've actually tried using the Century model, or if
you're just comparing advertising numbers.
You may not need a new liner in the gun/torch assembly to run .023" or
.025" wire. The C25 argon/CO2 mix is more expensive, but most likely the
best choice for sheetmetal and small wire.
Small wire size, low power output and C25 gas is what will make
sheetmetal
work very easy.
When repairing rusty sheetmetal, any rusty spots are best avoided. The
weld should be applied where the surface is absolutely clean steel and
free of rust, and where rust hasn't eaten away at the back side of the
body metal.
If the body metal is rusted badly on the back side, the patch area needs
to be enlarged/extended.
The skills for proper welding are in the user, not the machine.
Don't get too carried away with the model numbers and marketing hype..
even the better brand name 120VAC wire welders are just 90 Amp units.
Ernie L (SEJW group) and others will confirm this.
The possibility of a little more output amperage is realistic only if
the
unit requires a 30A 120VAC supply circuit.
Another aspect that many get carried away with is duty cycle.. unless
you're making long, continuous welds at high output current, duty cycle
isn't paramount.
During most home shop welding, the user is going to pause, changing
position or other small interruptions that reduce the actual weld-duty
time.
I would consider a better warranty period of more significance than a
slightly higher duty cycle, only because new stuff sometimes fails. A
good
warranty and parts supply chain outweighs a full power, 100% duty cycle
IMO.
There are numerous quality 120V units available, that have parts readily
available in most locations.
Hobart is one very good brand, with wide availability from what I've
seen,
but I haven't needed warranty repairs or major parts replacement.
All of the genuine Hobart consumable parts are readily available to me
locally, and if I would need a gun assembly or new liner, they're
readily
available online, or thru local dealers.
This Mm 211 unit is multi-voltage unit with extra features like the
Auto-set and Smooth-start which appear to be additional electronic
circuits that may be nice, until they fail. I don't know what
spatter-free
start is, but it sounds like marketing crap.
More features are generally just more things that can go wrong, and most
likely need to be returned to a service center for repair.
The smaller Millermatic wire units also have the Auto-set feature.
A good quality 120V unit should be economical to own and use with
consistent performance evey time it's turned on.
Since you already have a gas regulator kit, you might consider a basic
model quality wire welder that has the solenoid valve already installed
(many do).
The Hobart units still appear to be made in U.S.A. and they're
availability is as widespread as any other manufacturers.
You may not find a continuously adjustable heat range on some models.
Years ago, my job involved setting up a small fabricating and machine
shop, and to produce small machines for the employer.
The wire welder welder that was bought was a cheap imported
bottom-of-the-barrel quality unit, that required more time repairing and
adjusting, than actual welding.
Later, for my own use, I bought a Hobart Handler 135, and after years of
occassional use, have never had any problems with it. It still works
just
like it did when it was new.
--
WB
.........
Thanks for all the good information! The Hobart welders are what they
carry
in all the farm supply type of stores around here. The Hobart 140 I
looked
at today at Rural-King had only 4 steps for heat settings, the 180 and 210
version each had 7 steps. Have you ever had any problem with having steps
instead of continuously variable heat control?
Later I may get a bottle of Argon and see what damage I can do with my TIG
welder.
RogerN
Cringe...yeah...steps tend to limit your fine work pretty badly. So
you will wind up holding the gun closer or farther away from the
weldment rather than learning to hold the same distance and simply
adjusting the arc.
Its not a deal breaker..but...something to be well aware of before
spending the money. Best to find a welder with a "volume control" type
of adjustment for both power..and wire speed. Makes setups much easier.
The old Weldpak 100 has steps...and while it works well for little
money..if you are going to be spending some bigger bucks....get what
works easily every time.
Gunner
I like to "dial" mine in, that is, find out what settings work perfectly for
what, then keep a little 3 x 5 notebook of the settings. Compensating for
too low/too high amperage by adjusting stickout range is not a great thing.
If your stickout is too short, it burns back into the contactor tube. If it
is too long, you end up with a bb on the end of the wire, and either have to
trim it, or start with a bit of metal on the end of the wire.
I tell you, getting it "dialed in" on some scrap, then using the staggered
spot sequence will give you some dang pretty welds that make your work look
very very good. Also do rosette welds, where you drill a 1/8 or + hole in
one side of two pieces of metal that are going to fit flat against each
other. Clamp, and fill the hole, making it a really good spot that is as
strong as some of those that the robots do in the factories. Staggered
rosettes are also good for positioning a piece before welding it all around
to keep down warpage.
Steve
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