In article , Bill wrote:
wrote:
On Mon, 12 Jul 2010 20:24:07 -0400, wrote:
zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
One thing you might do is put the wire on a stick so it comes off straight,
without kinks. It makes it a *lot* easier to thread through the holes, if
it's straight and not all loopy.
Looks nicer, too!
Hey, thanks! I noticed a few "twists" in the wire I've uncoiled so far.
I'll devise something (I hope the top rail comes off of my wife's quilt
rack!).
Don't do that! You'll likely break it and there goes your toy, er, tool
money. I generally use a clamp (or two) on the wall studs on the other side
of the room.
Inspired by Doug Miller's collection of exotics (bits to put on the end
of a drill), I bought Stanley's 62-piece set today for 12.99 at Menards.
It turned out to contain a large torx bit, just what I needed to take
apart the quilt rack. I asked permission first, and SWMBO thought it was
fine that I use it the way I explained (turns out this item which is
taking up valuable space in the shop area is not as meaningful a piece
of memorabilia as I might have guessed). I put a piece of padding
underneath my 250' rolls of 10-2 and 12-2 romex to protect my wire from
the hollow square steel frame. The roll of 10-2 is fairly heavy as most
everyone here but me has known for years.
Nuther story. Directions on my new 3/4" auger bit suggested using a
corded drill. Okay, I have 3. The B&D my dad gave me, which was old in
1989 when he gave it to me, was the only one that would fit between the
studs with a bit. According to the label, it is a 5 Amp drill. In my
test efforts, the bit got stuck in the wood (3x) before I was able to
get though a stud--and I mean stuck in the sense that the drill stopped
moving, smoked, and I had to remove the bit from the chuck and from the
wood with a wrench, stuck. I tried a 3/4" spade bit with much better
results, if not quite as smooth an exit hole. I'll take back my new
7/8" auger bit and trade it for a spade bit of the same size.
This makes me curious as to what it takes to drive an auger bit (the
salesman at Home Depot spoke so highly of them).
It depends on how big a bit, and through what kind of wood.
That said, a Milwaukee "Hole Hawg" will go through about anything.
In tight quarters, a right-angle drive adapter is a _big_ help,
As is a geared speed-reducer (if you can _find_ one of those, these
days).