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N8N N8N is offline
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Default Support for Kneewall

In that case just take a piece of wood the same size as the floor
joist, and in the joist bay below the end of the knee wall put a cross
piece in between two floor joists, then cut a hole in the floor for
the end post to go through (I would probably use a 4x4 assuming that
you framed the knee wall with 2x4) and bolt that to the piece you just
put in.

nate

On Jul 13, 9:48*am, "desgnr" wrote:
The kneewall is below a Archway that i assume there is a header above i can
attach to.
There *is no joist below,they run Parellel to the kneewall."Tony" wrote in message

...





desgnr wrote:
I built a 6' long *x 42" high kneewall between my Diningroom & Kitchen.
But if i push on the end of the wall it moves a little.
I want to put a Column at the end for support,but don't know how to
attach it to the ceiling & not see brackets.
Any suggestion's appreciated.


I made a very sturdy one by first lifting part of the floor and putting a
vertical 2x6 glued and screwed to the floor joist at the loose end of the
knee wall, also adding blocking to transfer the horizontal force to the
adjoining joists on each side. *I would have had to change it a lot to
have more joints like that but the other end of the knee wall was going
into a normal wall anyway. *I put the sill plate down also by gluing and
screwing it down into the double joists below the floor. (double because
it was around the opening for stairs) Then built the kneewall using glue
and screws. *Now many people underestimate the strength drywall can add,
but it can add quite a lot. *Before the drywall the knee wall was fairly
stiff. *After installing the drywall with GLUE and screws the wall became
even stronger than I had hoped for. For the drywall to add that much
strength, the sill plate must be down strong as all hell and the bottom of
the drywall glued to it. *I think I had a few lag bolts with washers in
the sill plate also but the glue is also very important.


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