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DerbyDad03 DerbyDad03 is offline
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Default Running water in my garage

On Jul 12, 1:51*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 12, 1:44*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On Jul 8, 10:31*pm, wrote:


OK, here's my scenario. *I have a typical ranch/rambler with the attached
garage on the front in an L-shape. *Previously a small part of the
garage-to-house entry was boxed in to create a laundry room, and this is
where the water heater also lives.


What I want to do is add an outside water spigot on the front of the garage.
The simplest way is to tap the cold water line in the laundry room, go up
into the garage roof framing, over and then down the front wall. *The
laundry room is heated space, but the garage has been known to freeze in the
winter, so I'll add a cutoff inside the heated space.


Mainly my question is one of material. *The obvious best is rigid copper,
but that's a buttload of work, expensive, and I'm lousy at sweating. *Plus I
have a semi-enclosed bit of framing where I have to make a 90-degree turn
and can't really get in to lay pipe.


CPVC? *Affordable and not hard to use, but the same problem with getting
through that boxed-in bit of framing.


PEX? *I like it, but have never worked with it, and I don't have the right
tools.


PVC? *Indoors?


My gut choice for this is polyethylene tubing, the same stuff we use to pipe
the refrigerator's ice maker. *Very affordable and easy to snake through
enclosed spaces with no joins. *I used the 3/8" stuff a few years ago to add
a filter housing to my kitchen sink, using the push-lock poly fittings.
Very easy and no leaks to date. *But is it anything like code compliant?


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Have you considered PEX and Sharkbite fittings?


No tools required other than a sharp blade. Yes, there are PEX cutting
tools, but a sharp blade works just fine, especially for one-time
jobs.


There is also a ~$3.00 tool for removing Shark Bite fittings, but they
can be disconnected without it.


Shark Bite fittings are a bit more expensive than other fittings, but
for what sounds like one-time job, they may be well worth the money.


Shark Bites work for Copper and PEX, so transitioning between the 2
materials requires no tools - other than a pipe cutter for the copper.


My HD has a whole display set-up of the different fittings. If I
needed a large number, I'd go to a plumbing supply store, but for one
or two, HD is fine.


Look here - it really is this easy.


http://www.sharkbiteplumbing.com/how-it-works-Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


The sharkbite stuff does work pretty well if you just have a few
connections to make. *They are pricey though, $5 to $10 apiece. *I
recently used a couple to transition from cpvc to pex and back. *It's
nice that you can take the connection apart too.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


$5 - $10 is a little high from what I've seen, but I guess it depends
on what you buy and where you buy them - geographic location and
supplier.

For a job I recently did I sweated together a 6 connection section on
my workbench and then used 1 Shark Bite to connect it to a PEX run and
another Shark Bite to tap the PEX into a copper run on the other side
of the basement.

No sweating up in the joist bays and really simple to run the PEX over
the ductwork instead of trying to sweat multiple lengths of copper in
order to cross the basement. The swivel feature of the Shark Bites is
a huge advantage, especially when installing a T, and probably worth
the extra cost all on its own.

The other advantage is being able to work on wet pipes. A few weeks
ago I had to cut and cap a vertical pipe to get ready for a bigger
job. I turned off the main, cut the pipe, slipped the Shark Bite cap
on and turned the water back on - all before the wife, who was cooking
dinner at the time, even knew I had turned the water off!

It would have taken me longer just to gather the supplies I would have
needed to sweat the cap on, never mind figureing out how to get the
water out of the pipe.