Josh wrote:
But is that circuit correctly grounded, is it?????

When I bought the 50s vintage house in 1971, all the outlets were the
old 2-prong type. The only ground was outlet ears and/or outlet
mounting screws into the metal outlet boxes and back to the breaker
box via the flexible armored steel conduit. Over the years I've
replaced all the outlets with 3-prong type, drilled a hole in the back
of the outlet box for a sheet metal screw, and connected a 6 inch
green 12 gauge wire from the screw to the outlet ground connector.
That's the case with the garage outlet I'm modifying from single to
double.

The NEC would like you to use a screw with machine threads, at least 2
threads in the metal (250.8). (Typically 10-32.)

As an alternative, you've probably seen "self grounding" receptacles -
have a clip next to the mounting screws to improve the path to the metal
box. (I like pigtails, like you used, a lot better.)

Flex used to be allowed as a grounding conductor if the flex and
fittings were "approved for the purpose". Now it is allowed only when
several conditions are met, including a maximum of 6 ft in the path back
to the panel. When I change the wires in flex I add a ground wire.


If I use an AC voltmeter or a small neon circuit tester to measure
from outlet hot to neutral, it naturally reads approximately 117 v.
If I measure between the outlet hot to the metal outlet box, or the
ground connector on the outlet, it reads the same 117v so I know the
ground path is in tact all the way back to the breaker box.

Probably a good ground path, but the meter and neon light (and 3-light
testers) do not use enough current to tell you if it is a high
resistance (useless) path. A 200W light bulb from H-G is a lot more
reliable. I use a neon test light all the time, but not to make sure
there is a good ground.

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bud--