On Sun, 20 Jun 2010 00:15:46 -0400, Bill wrote:

Thank you for your reply. It contains a lot of good information!

Josepi wrote:
Sounds like you are well on your way!! The first blow with the hammer was
the hardest! YIKES!!

Yes, I think we've discussed how difficult it can be to "start" here
before. After a few days of procrastinating, working on other things, I
made a list one evening, and it was easy as 1, 2, 3 the next day. I
think I didn't work so fast, because I wasn't so sure about Steps 4, 5
and 6! Perhaps procrastinating a bit after Step 2, I went on a 90
minute shopping trip to Menards and made a very detailed list of
virtually everything I thought I needed. Evidentally 240v, 20Amp
outlets are not popular, as I did not find what I was looking for
stocked. I thought I wanted the 3-prong type and The only ones they had
were ones which lock with a twist (still 3-prong).

We don't have a Menard's here (they have them where my brother lives), but a
20A 240V outlet should be pretty common. HD and Lowes carry them here,
several varieties.

I , again decide, never to drill less than 3/4" ones again!...LOL

3/4" sounded "right" to me to. I was planning to drill a practice hole
before I committed myself to see how well the cables fit! : )

I generally use 5/8" for 12/2 or 12/3. 3/4" should be fine, too.


A long spade bit with extension works well. It
avoids chips in your eyes if overhead or high run,
allows you to come in on a fairly straight angle without the next joist/
truss pushing your drill out,
allows a better "in-line" view so your holes do not go up and down.

Yes, I've also read in more than one place about the "importance" of
getting your holes lined up. They even suggested a jig (prop) to
assist. Most of the holes I need to drill will be through the studs in
the garage wall.

Drill them in the center, if at all possible.

- Drill the furthest one and work your way backward so the previous is
always in site or ping chalk lines to get your holes lined up.

Yes!


- drill individual holes for larger cables. ALl conductors need cooling.
Three 2 wire cables (6 conductors) in any hole so there is always cooling to
each conductor inside-

Three 10-2 Romex cables in one hole okay?

I wouldn't. Three small holes (centered) are better than one big one.


- before insulating shoot foam into the ceiling holes to re-vapour barrier.

Thank you for mentioning that --that wasn't even on my list!



I am not sure were you will used the running board..in attic or on ceiling.
Usually there are enough lumber pieces in the attic to follow with a cable.
Across the trusses is a good place for one. Nail it to bottom truss web and
nail cables to sides = no feet on cable to stretch it.

Attic. As the cable has to go perpendicular to the floor joists and many
of them are already covered with flooring, I latched onto the idea of a
"running board" when Mike Marlow first mentioned it. If I understand
what you wrote concerning where to locate it, is across the bottom of
the rafters, a few inches above the flooring, part of the "bottom truss
web"? The roof does not leak but should the proximity to the elements
via the roofing nails be of concern?

At the bottom of the rafters? That's some long nails! ;-)

It is good that no feet will be able to stretch the wire, but I think it
should be protected so that no one can push a box against it as well. I
have seen the idea of building a "U-shaped" running board proposed. 6
cables across an 6"-8" wide board? If the location I identified above
is okay, I would consider nailing the wires with the plastic backed
staples to the running board with great care not to damage any wires,
and then "screwing" the running board to the rafters in case it may ever
need to be modified.

I thought your attic was trussed? If so, you shouldn't be storing anything up
there. Trusses can take very little "floor load".


Dont' forget speaker cables, Ethernet (CAT5 or 5e or 6), intercom, phone,
remote control for dust collector, thermostats... video camera security
cables, weather vane, wind turbine, exhaust port in eaves...think hard and
take your time.

Gosh, that's the type of thinking that got me where I am now--and that
was "just" over electricity and lighting. You have a vivid
imagination--maybe you are in sales? : ) It occurred to me this week
that it would be nice to have a shop radio--don't laugh I just got a
sturdy wooden "shop chair" last week. After seeing how hot it gets, I
have to wonder where "air conditioning" might fit onto a list. I will
probably have to make-do with a shop fan. That would go well with all
of that dry-wall dust I'm making! : ) I already noticed white tracks
throughout the house the other day--burglars!!! I cleaned them up
before SWMBO came home!

Ho boy, I see trouble in your future!

Yes, it is the wrong time of the year for such things. I worked seven hours
in the attic today, trying to get things sealed up so I can put the temporary
floor back in. It'll take a couple more hours tomorrow, then I can move all
the junk back into the attic space. In the Fall I'll start over with the
walls and the real (sub) floor. I figure Winter will be a good time to
insulate the walls and ceiling. ;-)

Suggestion for your AC/heat... I'm looking into the "mini split" heat pumps
for my attic shop. They're in the $1K to $2K region, without installation, a
lot of it I hope I can do (just starting research mode). Tapping into my
upstairs air handler would be a piece of cake (it's in the area that is going
to be the shop), but circulating dust doesn't sound like a way to make SWMBO
happy. These "mini split" systems might just be the ticket. I should be able
to use my tools year 'round then, instead of just three months in the Spring
and Fall.