On 19 Jun 2010 14:25:42 -0700, Bill wrote
the following:


I got to get my "hands dirty" this week! I took down most of the drywall on my
long wall up to 7' high. The ceiling is 8.5' high, but I thought that stopping
at less than 8' would make replacing the drywall easier (I can always remove
more..). A pro would have probably used a skilsaw, but my Harbor Freight rotary
tool, along with a box-cutter, cut pretty well, if a little (i.e. alot) slower.
This was basically my first time removing any drywall at all, so I took my time.
I quickly learned the axiom, "A hammer is your friend"!

I removed a 2' square of drywall last month to put supports in for a
shower grab handle. I used the HF Multifunction tool with the rounded
blade and it was absolutely the best, safest, least-dusty method I've
ever used to cut drywall. That one use paid for the saw, I swear!
My one go-round with a live 240v circuit cost me $100, at a client's
home, too. Embarrassing. I had cut the inside drywall out, felt the
cavity, but didn't remove the insulation. Because of the insulation,
I missed the flatwire cable for the water heater. The result was
blinding as I ran the Tiger saw through the outer wall and into the
wire as I cut the rectangular hole for the microwave and stove vent.
Oops!


I also removed an existing 50-Amp outlet from the wall. I validated the outlet's
deadness with my voltometer before I touched anything. I made a special trip to
the store to buy connectors (the largest ones I could find!) which I put on the
end of each of the wires (perfect fit) and I taped each of them at least 3"
down. I did this even though the C-Breaker will stay turned off and I must give
some of the Wrecker's most of the credit for giving me the right perspective to
so gingerly protect my dead wires (Lew: I wish my main panel had a lock!).
Swingman: I also picked up a outlet tester *with GFCI* while I was at the store!
I will completely remove that wire and its corresponding C-breaker from the main
panel soon, and I will do so while the main circuit breaker is turned off.

I picked up a Greenlee variable voltage tick from Amazon the other
day. 5-1000v. It's a bit touchy, but the variable sensitivity dials
out false positives. It beeps and the bright LED glows when you get
close to an active circuit. this $13 item would have saved me that
Benjy. sigh

Ask a local electrician about hole size and runningboards for your
area, Bill. I usually use a 3/4" Jennings for my wiring through studs
and topplates, and I prefer to keep wiring separated and use insulated
staples on Romex, but IANAE.

--
Peace of mind is that mental condition in which you have accepted the worst.
-- Lin Yutang