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Andy Dingley Andy Dingley is offline
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Default garden gate construction

On 17 June, 13:10, Fred wrote:

I would like to put a gate across the passage that leads to our
garden. I would like a solid "door style" gate, about 3'3" wide and 6'
tall.

I know you use a Z shape brace on the back to hold it all together but
do you just butt the planks together or is it better to use tongued
and grooved wood? Would you glue them or would nails/bolts be enough?


It's outdoors, so it will move with seasonal moisture changes. T&G is
too fine and will break, a half-lapped edge is better. Your boards
should only be fastened in the centre of the board, so that their
edges can move in and out freely. The half-lap stops a gap appearing.
You can buy timber machined like this, saw it on your table saw
(best), hand plane it with a #78 or rebate with a router.

The Z frame and hinges are where the strength is. As a minimum, use
half laps with bolts through them. Diagonal brace "under" the rails
looks best.

For strength, nails, bolts and screws. If you use nails, use long ones
and clench them over on the back (Crop diagonally to 1 1/2" long, bend
the last 1/4"-1/2" to make a spike, then bend the stub sideways across
the grain and hammer it into the timber. Looks neat when done
carefully.


I know 18mm T&G is readily available and often used as floorboards; is
T&G available in thicker sizes?


Buy better timber, with better rot resistance. Larch or Douglas fir.


What's the best way to mount it? Onto a stout fence post?


Whatever is handy. Toolstation / Screwfix do big galv hinge sets.


What is the best way to lock it shut? Would you use a padlocked bolt
or could you somehow incorporate a mortice lock?


Padlocked bolt. Too skinny for a mortice lock, rimlocks are generally
flimsy. If you have a substantial and weatherproof rimlock (some Yale
pin tumbler deadlocks) then use that.

BTW would you cramp the wood together whilst the glue sets


I wouldn't bother gluing it, as glue won't last anyway. You need a
flat assembly surface (tarmac is fine), three or four cheap
lightweight aluminium long clamps, and an anvil-shaped object for
clenching the nails against. I suggest assembling the Z frame,
attaching two light battens to hold this in place, then nailing the
skin to the frame. Finally remove the battens.


is it worth paying for Irwin cramps?


No, buy old S/H Record or Paramo.