On Jun 10, 10:09*pm, "Artemus" wrote:
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in messagenews:Xns9D93DEAA4F54Blloydspmindspringcom@2 16.168.3.70...





Winston fired this volley in
:

Obviously I'm doing something wrong here as my joints are brittle
and don't hold worth squat.

Winston! *Winston... Winston...

50313 is a lead-free plumbing solder. It's NOT "silver solder" in the
sense of brazing alloys, even if it might contain some silver (which
Oatey does not state in the specs)

First of all, get some 'real' silver solder -- the stuff you buy in the
Forney section of an ACE hardware, or at a welding shop. *Second, be
prepared to see the metal red before the solder will flow. *The Oatey
53013 will flow at about 700F, which will barely make the blade smoke,
much less glow dull cherry red.

LLoyd

It is soldering and not brazing that I'm trying to do so I don't *think* I
need the 'real' stuff. *I'm attempting to do what these guys are doing without
buying their package.http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...-Deluxe-Bandsa...
As they use a butane torch I doubt they really are brazing.
Art- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Lloyd is right. You're using a soft solder and it’ll never hold for
this job. The real silver solder that you need is a hard solder and
melts at a brazing temperature. Usually you use oxy-acetylene for
silver soldering. You just have the wrong tools to do this job
properly. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering