In article unications,
Robert Bonomi wrote:
In article ,
Bill wrote:

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
. ..
(Robert Bonomi) wrote in
:

*snip*

Lastly, I'd put in GFI _outlets_, and use regular breakers, where I
could. _IF_ something trips, it will kill that outlet only, and -not-
take out 'something else' that might be running on the same circuit.

Robert,

That sounds (to me) inconsistent with the "you one need one GFI outlet at
the beginning of a (circuit) run for each hot" advise that I've heard.
What am I missing?

Nothing. that's _all_ you *NEED*. *IF* you series-wired the downstream
outlets.

I parallel-wire, and use a GFI each place.

Clarification -- this *is* somewhat unconventional, I realize it needs more
explanation.

A standard GFI outlet has two pairs of isolated wiring points. One (hot and
neutral) for upstream ['line'], the other (ISOLATED hot / ISOLATED neutral)
for additional outlet(s) [load] to be protected.

Typical ("series") wiring is hot/neutral from panel to GFI 'line', GFI 'load'
(isolated) hot/neutral to next outlet and on to next (repeating as needed)
making sure that the isolated neutral is 'continuous' from GFI to end of run.

NEC has specified that neutral must be a continuous conductor back to the panel.
*PRESUMABLY* there's an exception to this for 'downstream' GFI protection, as
the downstream outlet (isolated) neutral has to be wired to the GFI load neutral,
*NOT* to the panel neutral bus.

What _I_ first did, motivated by the fact that (1) I was putting only 2 duplex
outlets on a breaker, (2) the 2 duplex outlets were located 'distant' from each
other (idea being to have 'as many as practical' different circuits 'within
reach' at any given point), _and_ (3) as a result of (2), the outlets were
usually in _opposite_directions_ from the panel. Each hot came out of the panel
and into an immediately adjacent 'distribution box' where it was joined to a
_separate_ wire going to each outlet (shorter to do 2 runs, then out to one
outlet, back, and out to 2nd outlet.) (3 conductors in the wire-nut -- one to
each outlet, and the 'common' back to the breaker) -- one to each outlet,
and the 'common' back to the breaker) Neutral from each outlet was run all the
way back to the panel. no breaks, no splices. This called for a GFI breaker
at _each_ location. since neither 'downstream' of, or protected by the other.
(Note: electrical inspector _did_ wonder at, and question, *all* those neutrals
at the panel. more neutrals than circuits!

Subsequently, I've been able to find GFI receptacles for _not_ much more money
than a quality duplex outlet. So, I treat the in wall wiring (hot/neutral) like
a 'buss'. and pigtail off a tap on -each- one at each outlet. which connects
to the _line_ side of a GFI outlet at each location. 'load' side goes unused.
Each GFI can see only it's own pigtail and trips only if a device plugged into
it fails. When it trips, it kills only the pigtail, and any other independently
protected outlets on the 'buss' are still active.

There is an additional, but subtle, advantage to this set-up, _if_ there is a
possibility of (young) children around. Since you've got a _separate_ GFI at
-each- outlet position, you can disable the outlets, by hitting the 'test'
button on all of them, and only resetting when actually needed for use.

Outlets with switches 'built in' are *handy*. Especially when it's not
particularly obvious that they _are_ switches. *GRIN*