On May 31, 12:42*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-05-30, Searcher7 wrote:

On May 21, 4:48 pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:

* * * * [ ... ]

* * * * Until you clean off the Cosmolene, you will get strange values.

Yes. But this is *really* strange. :-)

All supplied holders work on both sides of the tool post and lock at
the same position.(The locking bar swings 90 degrees).

The Aloris will only work on one side with the locking bar swinging
about 15 degrees.

* * * * Strange indeed -- but did you compare the height of the wedges
on the two stations? *If they are unequal, you'll want to remove them
and reinstall with the proper threads engaged -- as I typed an
explanation of a while back (Aha! *it is still quoted below) -- and I
later checked that my Phase-II worked the same.

* * * * And did you try measuring inside the dovetail of both the Aloris
and one of the others which fit properly using a pair of rods of
reasonable diameter as I suggested earlier?

* * * * [ ... ]



* * * * If you clean the dovetails, it is likely to make enough
of a difference. *If it does not, then you perhaps need to disassemble
the holder and try to start the wedges back on at a different point in
the threads. *It uses a multi-start thread to get enough vertical travel
from the limited lever rotation.

* * * * To take it apart:

1) * * *Remove the hex nut at the top.

2) * * *Withdraw the T-nut blank and vertical rod.

3) * * *Rotate the lever to move the wedges downwards until
* * * * they come out the bottom.

4) * * *Reposition the lever perhaps 30 degrees back towards
* * * * lock from the point at which the wedges came out.

5) * * *Re-insert the wedges, and hold them pressed up while
* * * * you turn the lever to draw them in fully.

6) * * *Check whether the lever has a more reasonable range.

7) * * *If not, go back to 3 and repeat until you get the proper
* * * * lever position.

* * * * When I checked with mine, I discovered that the threads are
3-start, so you should only need three tries to get it right.

* * * * [ ... ]

* * * * BTW -- the screw *may* be to keep it from coming apart unless
you remove the screw. *It is not present in my Phase-II wedge style
toolpost.

Or perhaps it is a chewing gum fix to a quality control problem.

* * * * Likely.

* * * * Did you re-post the link to the image of the screw for the other
fellow who has the same brand of toolpost? *(I may discover this later
in my reading through the newsgroup, but I don't know yet. :-)

Yes. My tool post actually has "250-111 CHINA" stamped on it and
nothing else.

* * * * O.K. *And he did not have the screw in his, IIRC.

I was able to get the #1 and #4 toolholders on that came with the
toolpost to fit on at both positions, but not the Aloris toolholder.

* * * * Hmm ... And where must the locking lever be set to allow you to
slide them on?

I can slide the supplied toolholders on even when the locking bar is
past the halfway point and closer to the locked position.

* * * * On either station (dovetail)?

Yes. Both wedges.

* * * * Probably the best test is to try lifting several grinder brands
of the same size. *The heavier the grinder the better it will likely be.
(If it has too little real horsepower, it will slow down too much as you
start grinding.)

I have a Ryobi 6" Thin Line Bench Grinder.(BGH615 120V AC, 60Hz, 2.1A
3600RPM/TR/MN, 1/2" Arbor)
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ools/Grinders/

* * * * No experience with it.

* * * * And that old beat-up grinder seems to be missing (among other
things) the sheet metal which goes between the bells to cover the field
coil frame visible as a square there. *This means that it has been
filled with abrasive grit over the years.

I'm sure those parts went missing long *after* the grinder was last
used.

* * * * Baldor is the primary name for quality in a bench grinder, and a
used one will be more affordable than new.

I'll see how my Ryobi does. (I still have to figure out what Aluminum
Oxide wheels to get for it).

* * * * O.K. *At least try it with what you have, so you'll know how
things change with new wheels. *And get a wheel dresser to true it up
once you mount the wheels.

Ok. I didn't know I could practice on HSS using the OEM wheels.

* * * * And -- the other end of the shaft is threaded into the mechanism
isn't it? *So what will keep someone from unscrewing the ball and the
shaft as a unit?

Actually an "e" (or is is "C") clip just above the threaded end would
do the job of securing the joystick into the assembly. The thread is
for a protective cap, since that part of the joystick will move about
inside a restrictor.

* * * * O.K.

* * * * But as someone else pointed out -- that big a steel ball will be
*heavy* ...

It'll be a heavy duty control panel. :-)

* * * * Well ... *you'll find out how it works out.

*-- and will slow down the reactions of the player. *And this is
assuming that the springs are strong enough to restore the ball and
lever to neutral position.

Player reaction won't be a problem. And I'll experiment with the best
re-centering springs.

* * * * [ ... ]

* * * * Using a die and tapping are both thread cutting, so the Rigid
fluid will work for both. *Of course, for small holes there are other
fluids which might be easier to use, such as "TapMagic". *If you somehow
get the original formula (now difficult to find) pay attention to the
"Not for Aluminum" warning. *You try it and you will get a plume of
smoke and a discolored tap. *But the current versions include aluminum,
and there are special versions specifically for aluminum.

Since the Enco site is down again I'll have to wait. But basically I
can use the same oil for turning as I do for threading, correct?

* * * * Yes. *Some are better than others for specific tasks and
materials but they *all* work better than nothing. :-)

* * * * [ ... ]



* * * * Hmm ... MSC lists plastic knobs with brass inserts for the
threads in quite a few sizes -- including sizes of threaded hole.

00448225 * * * *1-7/8" diameter, 5/8-18 thread
00448191 * * * *1-3/8" diameter, 1/2-20 thread
00448183 * * * *1-3/8" diameter, 3/8-24 thread Price: *$2.52 ea In stock: *59

Or:

77415263 * * * *1-3/8" diameter, shaft length 4.7", shaft diameter 1/2",
* * * * * * * * shaft chrome plated, thread 3/8-16, Price: $11.94 ea

* * * * I've only looked at the first 60 of 300 knobs offered.

* * * * O.K. *Narrowing the search a bit to knobs with shafts, and
selecting 1-1/2" diameter I find three, all with 0.62" shaft diameter
and 1/2-13 thread. *Shaft lengths a

77415438 * * * *7.9"
77415420 * * * *5.9"
77415446 * * * *9.9"

* * * * There are four balls with 3/8-16 inserts -- made by Gibralter
and Davies.

* * * * Spend time on MSC's web page -- or in their Big-Book catalog.

I'll definitely have to make my own shafts to get the lengths correct.

* * * * O.K.

(I wonder if I should look into plastic injection for the knobs). @#$
%! MSC is also temporarily down.

* * * * The good knobs have a brass insert to carry the threads cast
into the body of the knob.

i haven't ruled out plastic injection molding for some of these.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.