On 2010-05-21, Searcher7 wrote:
On May 20, 5:32*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-05-19, Searcher7 wrote:
On May 18, 5:59*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
* * * * [ ... ]
I played with it some more and the toolholder finally started to drop
low enough.(As far as the stop on top of the toolholder would allow).
* * * * Did you use WD-40 or kerosene or something similar to wash off
the Cosmolene on the dovetails? *That will make things a lot more
difficult to move.
I haven't done any cleaning yet.I figure I'll do that just before I
put it on the lathe compound.
Until you clean off the Cosmolene, you will get strange values.
* * * * As for that screw -- I'm not sure what function it serves,
though it could set a limit to how far down the wedge can go. *There is
certainly nothing like that on my Phase-II series-200 clone of the
Aloris BXA toolpost.
* * * * Is there a similar screw in the bottom end of the other wedge?
Nope. Just that one.
* * * * I wonder whether it simply got trapped there or whether it was
intended to be an adjustable travel stop.
I wouldn't be able to get a screw driver in there to find out. (But it
seems tight).
Why not? All you need to do is to remove the big hex nut at the
top and pull out the bar with the T-nut blank at the bottom. You might
even be able to rotate the T-nut blank enough to give access with the
nut still on, but just loosened.
However, based on other photos that is probably not needed. You
get plenty of swing on the locking arm.
As long as the head of the screw does not hit the dovetail when
the tool holder is slid all the way down (adjust the height adjustment
nut to allow this) then you can ignore it.
[ ... ]
But the bar only turns about an inch between unlocked and locked. (The
difference in position of the bar between those first two pics show
how far I can turn it when the toolholder is on the post).
* * * * Does the tool holder lock firmly in that position?
I can't budge it, so I assume it is locked.
You can't really test that while the Cosmolene is still there.
It will cause it to appear to lock up well before it normally would
really lock up.
* * * * And ... what about when the tool holder is not installed? *If it
only swings that far then you might want to try removing the screw. *It
really does not look as though it belongs there. *Does the head of the
screw hit the plate from which you make the T-nut?
When the holder is not on the toolpost the bar will swing a little
less than 180 degrees. The two extremes are shown in the two new pics.
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/
O.K. That is plenty of swing.
(That's the screw knob with the toolpost).
*** Also, I noticed that I cannot put the toolholder on the toolpost
when it is fully open because the bar is in the way at the full open
position.
Perhaps if I clean the toolholder will slide down when the bar is
*just short* of the full open position.(Not likely though).
If you clean the dovetails, it is likely to make enough
of a difference. If it does not, then you perhaps need to disassemble
the holder and try to start the wedges back on at a different point in
the threads. It uses a multi-start thread to get enough vertical travel
from the limited lever rotation.
To take it apart:
1) Remove the hex nut at the top.
2) Withdraw the T-nut blank and vertical rod.
3) Rotate the lever to move the wedges downwards until
they come out the bottom.
4) Reposition the lever perhaps 30 degrees back towards
lock from the point at which the wedges came out.
5) Re-insert the wedges, and hold them pressed up while
you turn the lever to draw them in fully.
6) Check whether the lever has a more reasonable range.
7) If not, go back to 3 and repeat until you get the proper
lever position.
If you can't find a starting position for the threads which
gives a proper lever range, contact the vendor and see about a
replacement.
BTW -- the screw *may* be to keep it from coming apart unless
you remove the screw. It is not present in my Phase-II wedge style
toolpost.
Did you re-post the link to the image of the screw for the other
fellow who has the same brand of toolpost? (I may discover this later
in my reading through the newsgroup, but I don't know yet. :-)
I was able to get the #1 and #4 toolholders on that came with the
toolpost to fit on at both positions, but not the Aloris toolholder.
Hmm ... And where must the locking lever be set to allow you to
slide them on?
Note that with most holders, the locking lever on mine locks up
with the lever pointing towards me (straight out from the lathe). It
will vary a little depending on the actual width of the dovetails in the
holders.
* * * * I guess that the first try is to tighten it into the wedge and
see how much travel you get.
Not needed -- you get plenty of travel.
[ ... ]
looks like I'll just have to change the toolholder every time I have
to do a different operation). :-(
* * * * That is what a quick-change toolholder is *for*. *Once the
Cosmolene is cleaned up and the toolpost is mounted on the lathe, you
will find how quick and easy it is to change tools.
Yes. Perhaps I'm concentrating too hard on trying to get the most
operations out of each holder. :-)
I think so. You want as many holders as needed to hold various
styles of cutters to allow you to do the job at hand. The absolute
*worst* thing to do is to have too few holders and have to change tools
between holders frequently -- also requiring re-setting the tool height
stop nut each time you do this.
It is not *too* bad if you make the changes just before a
project, so all the tools you need are present and adjusted at the start
of the project. But if you have to change between different tools in a
single holder in the middle of a project, you are slowing yourself down,
and increasing the chances of errors.
As I said below -- having multiple holders already set up
available allows you do do the multiple stages of a project much more
quickly and certainly.
* * * * I typically go through three or four holders (including the
BXA-16N) on a simple project, and may go through eight on a more complex
project which includes rough and finish turning threading, knurling, and
beveling. *(I use the 16N for rough turning, and move to a little very
sharp 1/2" shank carbide insert tool in a standard BXA-1 holder.) *This
shank and insert set came with my Compact-5/CNC (a small benchtop CNC
lathe). *The shanks are labeled Tizit, and I got quite a few bags of the
55 degree inserts from someone else here on the newsgroup many years
ago.
[ ... ]
BTW * * Beware of cheap grinders. *Many may look like they have a
* * * * fairly large motor, but in reality have a tiny underpowered motor
* * * * in a larger housing.
Most motors are probably over-rated either way, because the industry
is not really regulated, and horse power claims are false, perhaps
most of the time. (I was just reading about a class action suit that
was won as a result of something like this. https://lawnmowerclass.com/).
There is that one -- and the bogus "horsepower" ratings on air
compressors and shop vacs. An example is the shop vacs which used to be
labeled 7 Hp which plug into a standard 120 VAC outlet. Now, a bit of
calculation says that 7 Hp is 5,250 Watts, and on a 120 VAC outlet, that
would draw 43.75 A. Now most residential outlets are limited to 15A,
and heavy duty ones to 20 A -- so if it really developed the nameplate
horsepower, it would trip the breaker very quickly. :-)
Probably the best test is to try lifting several grinder brands
of the same size. The heavier the grinder the better it will likely be.
(If it has too little real horsepower, it will slow down too much as you
start grinding.)
FWIW -- I have an ancient 6" grinder which belonged to my
father, and which he got in trade for an anchor. I have no idea how old
it really is, but I do know that it looked old back around 1957. :-)
I also picked up an 8" by JET which had been sitting in the
window of a builder's hardware store for many years. It has plenty of
horsepower, weight, very good bearings (it keeps running for a long time
after I switch off the power), and very well balanced. I have no idea
whether more recent ones are as good.
Baldor is the primary name for quality in a bench grinder, and a
used one will be more affordable than new.
[ ... ]
Thanks. The ball-top will be 1-1/2" in diameter, and the shaft will be
3/8" in diameter. The total length will be 5-1/2".
* * * * O.K. *1-1/2" diameter round stock, and a *lot* of metal to
remove. *It will be cheaper and easier to get 3/8" diameter round stock,
and pre drilled and tapped balls.
* * * * If you're worrying about someone unscrewing and stealing the
ball, get a heavy grade Loctite to secure the ball to the lever.
I'd probably need something even more permanent. (Someone could
probably still heat up the ball to remove it).
Hmm ... if he has a torch with him to heat it up, and an oven
mitt to wear while unscrewing it -- and an insulated pocket to put it in
while he carries it home ... he probably also has a firearm in his
pocket to deal with someone stopping him taking the whole game.
Really -- you need a *lot* of heat to loosen a heavy Loctite
such as a bearing mount version.
And -- the other end of the shaft is threaded into the mechanism
isn't it? So what will keep someone from unscrewing the ball and the
shaft as a unit?
But as someone else pointed out -- that big a steel ball will be
*heavy* -- and will slow down the reactions of the player. And this is
assuming that the springs are strong enough to restore the ball and
lever to neutral position.
[ ... ]
* * * * The hydraulic oil and a light spindle oil are similar enough so
that might work. *But not Waylube or cutting oil in the same product.
In particular, a cutting oil contains additives which weaken the metal
bonds making it easier to cut, and are also frequently high film
strength lubes (something like Rigid pipe threading oil for example.)
Perhaps I should order larger(gallon) amounts. I'm just trying to keep
things simple for both lathe and mill/drill. Oil for the ways. Oil for
the spindles. cutting/tapping fluid. The lead screw(lithium grease?).
General rust preventative. And something for when I *attempt* to turn
S.S. :-)
* * * * Normally, the leadscrew (at least on my Clausing lathe) uses the
same lube as the ways -- Vactra No. 2. *It is sticky enough so it will
hold position nicely on the leadscrews.
BTW.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...=7899909&PMAKA...
And it's free shipping this month with the code.
* * * * O.K. *I actually use one quart bottles with a squirt spout.
Same brand. *Note that it generates a smell when in use -- especially if
you are running at high forces. *It includes sulfur, and that with heat
becomes sulfur dioxide -- a nasty thing to breathe much of.
Thanks. So that's another item on my list. Now all I need is a tapping
fluid.
Using a die and tapping are both thread cutting, so the Rigid
fluid will work for both. Of course, for small holes there are other
fluids which might be easier to use, such as "TapMagic". If you somehow
get the original formula (now difficult to find) pay attention to the
"Not for Aluminum" warning. You try it and you will get a plume of
smoke and a discolored tap. But the current versions include aluminum,
and there are special versions specifically for aluminum.
* * * * [ ... ]
I think that Aquamet might be a form of 316, but I don't know of it's
work properties. (It might have been a propeller shaft of something
similar). But smoothing it up will be all I need to do anyway.
* * * * Well ... you'll find out how it machines, anyway. :-)
* * * * Based on what someone else posted, it will be a real bear to
machine -- depending on just which alloy it happens to be.
Then I guess for all intents and purposes it is 316...
* * * * The 416 should do nicely -- if you wipe it off after a day's
play.
I'll need something more "maintenance free", so perhaps I should just
forget the stainless idea. For instance plastic injection for the ball-
top. ( just still have to figure out what is the best steel for the
shaft).
Hmm ... MSC lists plastic knobs with brass inserts for the
threads in quite a few sizes -- including sizes of threaded hole.
00448225 1-7/8" diameter, 5/8-18 thread
00448191 1-3/8" diameter, 1/2-20 thread
00448183 1-3/8" diameter, 3/8-24 thread Price: $2.52 ea In stock: 59
Or:
77415263 1-3/8" diameter, shaft length 4.7", shaft diameter 1/2",
shaft chrome plated, thread 3/8-16, Price: $11.94 ea
I've only looked at the first 60 of 300 knobs offered.
O.K. Narrowing the search a bit to knobs with shafts, and
selecting 1-1/2" diameter I find three, all with 0.62" shaft diameter
and 1/2-13 thread. Shaft lengths a
77415438 7.9"
77415420 5.9"
77415446 9.9"
There are four balls with 3/8-16 inserts -- made by Gibralter
and Davies.
Spend time on MSC's web page -- or in their Big-Book catalog.
Good Luck,
DoN.
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