On May 20, 5:32*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-05-19, Searcher7 wrote:
On May 18, 5:59*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
* * * * [ ... ]
I played with it some more and the toolholder finally started to drop
low enough.(As far as the stop on top of the toolholder would allow).
* * * * Did you use WD-40 or kerosene or something similar to wash off
the Cosmolene on the dovetails? *That will make things a lot more
difficult to move.
I haven't done any cleaning yet.I figure I'll do that just before I
put it on the lathe compound.
* * * * As for that screw -- I'm not sure what function it serves,
though it could set a limit to how far down the wedge can go. *There is
certainly nothing like that on my Phase-II series-200 clone of the
Aloris BXA toolpost.
* * * * Is there a similar screw in the bottom end of the other wedge?
Nope. Just that one.
* * * * I wonder whether it simply got trapped there or whether it was
intended to be an adjustable travel stop.
I wouldn't be able to get a screw driver in there to find out. (But it
seems tight).
* * * * [ ... ]
Ok, I think that perhaps you might not have seen if clearly, so I
partially unwrapped the threaded rod and screwed it into the toolpost.
This should show that the orientation is correct. (The toolholder is
located about the middle of the toolpost).
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/
* * * * O.K. *That looks more reasonable. *What I was seeing (once I
downloaded the first image and brightened it up a bit) was apparently
the reflection of the dovetail on the holder. *And the angle of view had
the surface with the socket for the lever edge on, so it could not be
seen.
But the bar only turns about an inch between unlocked and locked. (The
difference in position of the bar between those first two pics show
how far I can turn it when the toolholder is on the post).
* * * * Does the tool holder lock firmly in that position?
I can't budge it, so I assume it is locked.
* * * * And ... what about when the tool holder is not installed? *If it
only swings that far then you might want to try removing the screw. *It
really does not look as though it belongs there. *Does the head of the
screw hit the plate from which you make the T-nut?
When the holder is not on the toolpost the bar will swing a little
less than 180 degrees. The two extremes are shown in the two new pics.
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/
(That's the screw knob with the toolpost).
*** Also, I noticed that I cannot put the toolholder on the toolpost
when it is fully open because the bar is in the way at the full open
position.
Perhaps if I clean the toolholder will slide down when the bar is
*just short* of the full open position.(Not likely though).
I was able to get the #1 and #4 toolholders on that came with the
toolpost to fit on at both positions, but not the Aloris toolholder.
* * * * I guess that the first try is to tighten it into the wedge and
see how much travel you get.
* * * * But the tests for proper locking should not be done until the
Cosmolene has been cleaned off, because the thickness and stickiness of
the Cosmolene will change where the lever locks on a given holder.
* * * * [ ... ]
45 degrees is exactly what I was thinking. :-)
* * * * If you need only that angle, get a shank for the inserts which
will hold them at the 45 degree angle, and put it in a #1 tool holder.
Ok, so I guess there is still no reason to get the AXA 22.
* * * * You can still get the AXA-22 if you want. *It will do the job
well, it is just more expensive than reasonable for just that purpose.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *(And it
looks like I'll just have to change the toolholder every time I have
to do a different operation). :-(
* * * * That is what a quick-change toolholder is *for*. *Once the
Cosmolene is cleaned up and the toolpost is mounted on the lathe, you
will find how quick and easy it is to change tools.
Yes. Perhaps I'm concentrating too hard on trying to get the most
operations out of each holder. :-)
* * * * I typically go through three or four holders (including the
BXA-16N) on a simple project, and may go through eight on a more complex
project which includes rough and finish turning threading, knurling, and
beveling. *(I use the 16N for rough turning, and move to a little very
sharp 1/2" shank carbide insert tool in a standard BXA-1 holder.) *This
shank and insert set came with my Compact-5/CNC (a small benchtop CNC
lathe). *The shanks are labeled Tizit, and I got quite a few bags of the
55 degree inserts from someone else here on the newsgroup many years
ago.
* * * * [ ... ]
I found a good supplier:http://www.abtec4abrasives.com/
* * * * In the UK? *Shipping may be a killer. *And are you seeing the
price in UK Pounds and mentally treating it as US dollars? *Look up the
exchange ratio -- and take into account the shipping costs across the
Atlantic.
Actually I was thinking in terms of the buying experience of another
who raved about their service and the wheels performance when he got
them.
* * * * O.K. *Make sure you know what kind of wheels you need. *I'm not
a good source for that information.
BTW * * Beware of cheap grinders. *Many may look like they have a
* * * * fairly large motor, but in reality have a tiny underpowered motor
* * * * in a larger housing.
Most motors are probably over-rated either way, because the industry
is not really regulated, and horse power claims are false, perhaps
most of the time. (I was just reading about a class action suit that
was won as a result of something like this.
https://lawnmowerclass.com/).
* * * * [ ... ]
* * * * 416 is not ast stainless, but is easier to machine.
* * * * I meant to say "not *as* stainless" above. :-)
It's really the stainless steel look I'm after. But like I said sweaty
hands may cause problems over time.
* * * * The *look* will probably require a lot of polishing after the
turning is done.
So can I assume this is what you'd use if you were making a one piece
ball-top joystick out of stainless steel?
* * * * Actually -- I probably would not try to make one. *How big is
the ball? *That will determine the diameter of the steel stock you will
need, since you are making it one piece. *And what I would probably try
there is to cut it to length (or a little longer), chuck it by the end
where the ball will be, and use a live center to support the other end,
turn down until I got the needed shank diameter, then reverse it, and
chuck it up as close to the ball as I could and still clear the radius
cutting tool.
Thanks. The ball-top will be 1-1/2" in diameter, and the shaft will be
3/8" in diameter. The total length will be 5-1/2".
* * * * O.K. *1-1/2" diameter round stock, and a *lot* of metal to
remove. *It will be cheaper and easier to get 3/8" diameter round stock,
and pre drilled and tapped balls.
* * * * If you're worrying about someone unscrewing and stealing the
ball, get a heavy grade Loctite to secure the ball to the lever.
I'd probably need something even more permanent. (Someone could
probably still heat up the ball to remove it).
* * * * [ ... ]
* * * * As for setting the angle, get a fishtail rule. :-)
???
* * * * A short steel rule with the proper angle for threading tools.
It looks like this (view with a fixed pitch font to avoid distortion,
Courier is a good choice):
* * * * *|\ */|
* * * * *| \/ |
* * * * * * *| * Typically about 1" wide, and 3" long..
* * * * *| * *|
* * * * * \ */
* * * * * *\/
* * * * The male angle at the bottom and the female angles at the top
and the sides (there are actually two side ones of different sizes) are
used both for gauging the angles of the threading tools when you grind
them from HSS blanks, and for making sure that the tool is presented at
the proper angle to the workpiece.
Ok. Center Gauge. :-) I thought that's what you were referring to.
* * * * O.K. *Fishtail rule is a common term for it.
* * * * [ ... ]
* * * * The hydraulic oil and a light spindle oil are similar enough so
that might work. *But not Waylube or cutting oil in the same product..
In particular, a cutting oil contains additives which weaken the metal
bonds making it easier to cut, and are also frequently high film
strength lubes (something like Rigid pipe threading oil for example.)
Perhaps I should order larger(gallon) amounts. I'm just trying to keep
things simple for both lathe and mill/drill. Oil for the ways. Oil for
the spindles. cutting/tapping fluid. The lead screw(lithium grease?).
General rust preventative. And something for when I *attempt* to turn
S.S. :-)
* * * * Normally, the leadscrew (at least on my Clausing lathe) uses the
same lube as the ways -- Vactra No. 2. *It is sticky enough so it will
hold position nicely on the leadscrews.
BTW.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...=7899909&PMAKA...
And it's free shipping this month with the code.
* * * * O.K. *I actually use one quart bottles with a squirt spout.
Same brand. *Note that it generates a smell when in use -- especially if
you are running at high forces. *It includes sulfur, and that with heat
becomes sulfur dioxide -- a nasty thing to breathe much of.
Thanks. So that's another item on my list. Now all I need is a tapping
fluid.
* * * * [ ... ]
I think that Aquamet might be a form of 316, but I don't know of it's
work properties. (It might have been a propeller shaft of something
similar). But smoothing it up will be all I need to do anyway.
* * * * Well ... you'll find out how it machines, anyway. :-)
* * * * Based on what someone else posted, it will be a real bear to
machine -- depending on just which alloy it happens to be.
Then I guess for all intents and purposes it is 316...
* * * * The 416 should do nicely -- if you wipe it off after a day's
play.
I'll need something more "maintenance free", so perhaps I should just
forget the stainless idea. For instance plastic injection for the ball-
top. ( just still have to figure out what is the best steel for the
shaft).
* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.
--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
Thanks a lot.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.