On May 18, 10:16*pm, aemeijers wrote:
Red Green wrote:
As mentioned in another thread, I'm in the process of putting down 3/4
T&G in a few interconnected rooms/hall. I'm not in the kitchen yet but I
knew up front the dishwasher clearance may be a strong possible issue.
The combination of the kitchen had new vinyl many years ago where
underlayment was used, as it should have, and now adding 3/4" more. The
old underlayment does not go under the DW. Stops at the kickplate.

I did some quick visual after removing the kickplate and, as suspected,
it looks grim. Very little clearance between the stone counter and top of
DW. The DW foot rails don't look like they will make it once the hardwood
is in unless it can be tilted up some once everything is loose. Plan is
to put down a scrap strip of flooring, loosen up the DW and see what
happens.

To stir up the pot some more, the 3/4 will be laid on ends to the
kickplate.

If this does indeed turn out to be an issue, I'm looking for ideas on
what has been done in similar situations. The only thing I can figure is
to have a small depth section the width of the DW that can be removed
with some unorthodox improvising of removing the bottom of the grooves on
the left and right of the section. The section could be carefully screwed
from the basement fortunately...I think that's fortunate anyway.

I have no other experience with this type of problem so the only other
thing I can come up with is some type of inlay that is lower than 3/4.

Just looking ahead so I know what my options are if necessary.

Thanks,
Red...

If you do go with hardwood in kitchen (bad idea IMHO), bite the bullet
and strip the floor down to plywood subfloor. If you understandably
don't want to pull the base cabinets, buy or rent an appropriate saw to
flush-cut the (probably particle board) underlayment and vinyl over it.

I've seen kitchens where DW got trapped, and they had to do some real
hacks and butchery for work-arounds. IMHO, finish floor should fill DW
alcove, and the wall and cabinet base edges should be caulked, to direct
any leaks out into the room where you see them quickly. Even in there is
enough room to adjust DW legs and get it out, you don't want it sitting
in a wading pool.

--
aem sends...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is considerable wiggle room up on most dw's but the only way to
know for sure is to try it. Take a scrap of your floor and nail it in
front of the dw. See if you can get it out.

Personally I'd never put t/g wood in a kitchen. I live in a slightly
upscale neighborhood (not starter homes but not luxury either) that we
moved into when it was built. About half of them have t/g in the
kitchen. Over the 18 years we've been here at least 1/2 of those have
had to rip up sections or all of the hardwood in the kitchen because
of water damage. And by placed the ends at your dw the number of
damaged boards goes up a great deal. In most cases the problem
started with a small leak that was not detected immdiately. Because
small leaks almost never are. T/g warps up in less that a day when
exposed to water under it. The warp is permanent. Most of the houses
with t/g in the kitchen also showed significant wear along the traffic
patterns inside of 10 years. Kitchens have very consistent traffic
patterns. While it is a hard flooring, we tiled all our baths and the
kitchen.