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benick typed:
"EXT" wrote in message
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"benick" wrote in message
. ..
My 4 year old Ryobi string trimmer started acting up and
I can't figure what's wrong...It starts fine and idles
till it warms up then stalls but will start right back
up..It also bogs down and stalls when you hit the
throttle/trigger...Cleaned the air filter , changed the
plug , cleaned the spark arrestor screen...No
change..Also checked the gas I am using in my chainsaw
and it seems fine..Gonna pick up some carb cleaner next
trip into town and try that...Anything else I could check
?? Rebuilding carb would be a shop thing...Eyes aren't
what they used to be and I suffer with Fat Finger
Syndrome...LOL...Thanks for any help....

Had a Sthil (sp.) string trimmer that would not run after
every winter without disassembling and flushing out the
carb. It was a simple 1 1/2 inch cube of metal with ports
and channels milled into it. Easy to disassemble but one
had to be careful not to lose tiny parts. Once it was done
(I never saw any dirt while cleaning) it would run fine
until next spring even though I drained and ran it dry in
the fall.

It started acting up last summer the last time I used it so
over the winter I changed the plug and cleaned the spark
arrester screen with no improvement so it's not a winter
storage issue..I have bought some carb cleaner and will try
that and check the fuel filter..If that don't do it I will
probably get another one...To cheap to mess with too
much...

Your symptoms really sound like a carb adjustment is all that's needed.
Usually you have to remove a plate to get at them; there will be 2 screws;
one for hi speed, one for idling.
Get it good and warm, rev it up and hold it there while you adjust the hi
speed screw for best running sound and constant smoke emission.
Then slow it down and adjust the lo speed screw until you can let go of
the trigger and it'll keep running. Recheck the hi speed, the the lo if you
readjust the hi, and you should be set to go! They're actually pretty easy
to adjust.
Which screw is which should be labeled either inside there or on the
plate you have to remove. If not, there's always RTFM.

Oh, to the guy who runs the tank dry and stores over the winter: That's the
wrong thing to do since the after-heat will evaporate any oil covering and
things rust/gum up quickly. It's the same for any 2 cycle engine.
Leave the fuel in it. Add a few drops of Stabil or any other gas
stabilizer, and store it. The oil mix keeps a covering over all the parts
and they won't gum/oxidize. In the spring, pour out the fuel, add fresh and
you should be ready to go.

HTH,

Twayne`