On Tue, 27 Apr 2010 01:43:14 -0400, the infamous "J. Clarke"
scrawled the following:

On 4/27/2010 12:36 AM, Winston wrote:
On 4/26/2010 7:14 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/26/2010 9:04 PM, Winston wrote:

I was hoping to take advantage of the raw wood in flat contact by
gluing the corner laps together for added rigidity.
Flatter would be better for that use, yes?

Consider a "glue" that can be used with pressure treated wood,

Whups. I guessed that the chemical treatment penetration would
be shallow enough that the core would remain reasonably unaffected.
I was thinking on the order of say 1/4" depth max.
I will have to check into this. Thanks for the heads up.

The whole point of pressure treatment is that it goes all the way through.

YOU, sir, have obviously never cut a pressure treated piece of lumber
in half. The core is never, in my experience, fully treated. Copper
solutions only penetrate about 1/4", as discussed above.

That's why I keep 2 colors of dye/preservative in my truck. I have to
daub it on the cut ends of PT lumber when I'm done so it matches and
is protected from bugs and moisture. http://fwd4.me/EMu brown (most
used) and http://fwd4.me/EMy (green) are what I've found locally.


and be aware that a lap joint is one joint, particularly in this
application,
that, in addition to being "glued", needs to be either pinned or screwed
together.

Yup. I bought a couple boxes of chemical resistant square drive
fasteners from a local 'pro' lumber shop. I figured the shorter
fasteners for the lap corners and the longer fasteners to attach the
fence boards to the frame. Lag bolts for the hinges.

I've been using the epoxy coated deck screws, but find that upon
removal, half the epoxy is rubbed off. I'm in the process of
converting my stock to galv once again. I want my hard work to
outlast me. Square drive is definitely the best answer, too, with
combo (pozi and square) the next best thing. TORX is quite good, as
well, but square is my fave.

--
Losing faith in humanity, one person at a time.