On Mon, 26 Apr 2010 20:14:21 -0500, the infamous
(Robert Bonomi) scrawled the following:

In article ,
Winston wrote:
On 4/26/2010 1:48 PM, Robert Bonomi wrote:
In ,
wrote:

(...)


What would SuperWoodworker do?

Skilsaw (or equivalent), cut across the 2x4 at the proper distance from
the end, then use the Neander approach -- wide wood chisel and a hammer
to 'split' in from the end.

*WAY* less dust than the router will throw up.

Of course, you've got to be able to chisel a flat surface. for the lap.

Yes. Please see my forth sentence.

To reduce the effort of Neandering, do a -series- of parallel custs with
the Skilsaw, then break the 'fingers' off, and clean up with the chisel.

Hi, Robert.

I may revisit this approach, particularly if I can find a circular
saw blade with a very wide kerf (1/4" or wider?).

I suppose you could put two blades on the saw. *grin*
an actual dado set, "wobble" or otherwise, is definitely not a good idea,

Yeah, and if one's installed backwards, it'll cut well on the return
stroke, huh? chortle


My first attempt failed because I left way too much room between cuts,
as mentioned by other groupers.

BTW, there's nothing that says you have to leave _any_ space between the
cuts -- you can take it all off with the saw blade. "Break it off, and
clean up with a chisel and/or rasp" just tends to be easier/faster,
particularly, when you're going 'along' the grain.

Bbbut, that's awfully tricky to do.


My chisel-fu is not going to be up to your standard, so it may pay
me to continue to let the router create the flat surfaces I require.

I'll merely point out that you don't _need_ "flat" surfaces, just that
the two surfaces to be joined 'match". This -is- easier to do, with a
bit of 'lay them to together and see where they bind'.

Yes you do need flat. Wavy surfaces don't glue-up well. Curved is OK
if they mate, but "fairly flat" is a necessity.


I'm not disparaging the way you're currently doing it -- if it works _for_you_
that's all that matters. grin

When the opportunity presents itself, it is always worthwhile experimenting
with alternative approaches -- who knows, one of them *may* fit you better
than the way you have been doing it. Of course, it may not, but you're never
going to know until you try it.

True, try things until one "fits" your style.


One other alternative to consider, *IF* you've got the space to stand the 2x4
_on_end_, and support it stably, is to use a "back saw" (hand saw with a
reinforced spine on the blade) to cut down the middle of the 2x4s, and then
lay them down and cut off one of the 'sides', either with the back saw, or
a power saw. This +does+ call for some skill with the back saw, to hold it
vertical as you get the cut started.

[One could also set the depth stop in an SCMS (sliding compound miter
saw) and cut them on one of those, Pooh.]

--
Losing faith in humanity, one person at a time.