On 2010-04-26, AIOE wrote:
(this message may duplicate from eternal-september when they get around to
sending it in a year or two)
(image links inline with text - questions towards the end)
======================
I have known for several years now that my little 1/4 hp, eight-inch swing
drill press was inadequate for all of my needs (especially the short swing)
My current project has put a head on this, so when providence lined me up a
suitable item, I followed through.
I now own an old Rexon RDM-100A drill press, 1/2 hp, 14" swing, which I
acquired for sixty bucks. Not a Gunner/Iggy "take the machine, the car, and
my teenaged daughter" deal, but I am very happy.
O.K. It is similar to a Taiwanese drill press which I got for
about $150.00 back around 1975/76 or so -- except that mine is floor
standing.
Mine now has a nice Jacobs keyless chuck (similar to the
Albrecht ones in design and function), and the 5/8" chuck which came
with it stays within reach in case I really need it.
It is still a bench-mount unit, but substantially larger than my old Delta.
It is sturdy enough to do what I need to do with it, but still portable
enough to yard into the carport when I need to do a job outside.
O.K.
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon01.jpg
It also uses an idler pulley, so I now have 16 speeds instead of five, and
can be more precise in my feedrate selections.
Good -- and can run slow enough for your 1" drill bits.
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon02.jpg
Something that I think is pretty neat is the built in location for a light
bulb (I'll need to work a spotlight in there on a hinge).
I've simply put one of the monkey's fist style Compact
Fluorescents in it. That is short enough so it does not extend out
where it is easily broken, but casts lots of light without heating the
housing.
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon04.jpg
This is also the first drill press I have owned which uses a morse taper
(MT2) to accept the chuck arbor, so I will be able to mount drill bits using
collets in those cases when the chuck doesn't grip them tightly enough (what
all do I need to start working this angle?)
What you need is a Morse Taper "key" -- a tapered wedge which is
put in one side and hit with a hammer to knock out the arbor or bit.
Note that you can get drill bits with direct MT-2 shanks up to
1" size, so you don't need the collets (which don't work as well in that
as in a milling spindle, because there is no provision for a drawbar).
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon05.jpg
I was able to figure out that this machine is about the same as the current
Harbor Freight unit 38142, and have the manual for that machine. That led
me to figure out the assumed function of the little chrome-plated handle
shown in this picture, but despite loosening the two thumb screws, the
handle doesn't want to turn more than an 1/8". Where should I squirt some
lube to help free up this mechanism?
It usually has a fairly lose link to the motor mount plate. And
it won't go very far with the belt in place and tight. Loosen the clamp
screws (one on either side of the back of the casting), and you should
be able to move the handle towards the back, which will pull the motor
towards the casting -- as long as there is room for it to travel. It
looks as though the motor mount plate is almost in contact with casting,
which suggests that a belt is too short, or it is on the wrong step.
IIRC, there are five steps on the spindle pulley and the idler,
and only four on the motor pulley, and you want the motor belt to be at
the same level on both ends. If someone replaced the motor, and the
motor pulley is mounted too low, the proper pulley steps won't line up.
There should be a map of belt settings inside the belt cover
giving more detail than the front label does.
Once you get the rear belt off you *should* be able to move the
lever towards the motor, moving the motor back away from the casting.
When you have it as far as you can get it, put some drops of oil on the
two round rods which the motor mount slides in the casting on, then
work it back and forth a few cycles to clean whatever grunge is on the
rods.
Then, look for a V-belt the right length -- perhaps an inch
longer than what you have in there at present.
Note that some speeds can result in the idler pulley rubbing
against the belt safety cover. I found the best way to fix that with
mine is to punch new holes in the bottom of the cover where the two
screws attach it to the casting, and the pivot rod for the idler goes
into the casting so the belt housing can be moved a bit more towards the
feed lever side of the casting and not rub.
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon03.jpg
Anywho, I finally have a drill press that I can do some real work with.
Yes -- and get your 1" drill bit with a MT-2 shank instead of a
Silver & Demming reduced shank.
Only one choice -- MSC #01520642 -- import -- black oxide
finish, 118 degree point angle. $26.75 ea (get at least two, so if you
dull it part way through, you aren't stuck with nothing to do until you
sharpen it.
If you had a MT-3 spindle (neither do I, except in the lathe
tailstock) you would have 17 choices in the same size drill bit.
Hmm ... does your new drill press have enough stroke to drill
through both sides in one setup? That would save you some trouble with
the dowel fixturing. Put some 2x4 under it so you don't drill into the
table. Mine still has no "oops" holes in the table. :-)
Good Luck,
DoN.
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