(this message may duplicate from eternal-september when they get around to
sending it in a year or two)

(image links inline with text - questions towards the end)

======================

I have known for several years now that my little 1/4 hp, eight-inch swing
drill press was inadequate for all of my needs (especially the short swing)
My current project has put a head on this, so when providence lined me up a
suitable item, I followed through.

I now own an old Rexon RDM-100A drill press, 1/2 hp, 14" swing, which I
acquired for sixty bucks. Not a Gunner/Iggy "take the machine, the car, and
my teenaged daughter" deal, but I am very happy.

It is still a bench-mount unit, but substantially larger than my old Delta.
It is sturdy enough to do what I need to do with it, but still portable
enough to yard into the carport when I need to do a job outside.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon01.jpg

It also uses an idler pulley, so I now have 16 speeds instead of five, and
can be more precise in my feedrate selections.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon02.jpg

Something that I think is pretty neat is the built in location for a light
bulb (I'll need to work a spotlight in there on a hinge).

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon04.jpg

This is also the first drill press I have owned which uses a morse taper
(MT2) to accept the chuck arbor, so I will be able to mount drill bits using
collets in those cases when the chuck doesn't grip them tightly enough (what
all do I need to start working this angle?)

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon05.jpg

I was able to figure out that this machine is about the same as the current
Harbor Freight unit 38142, and have the manual for that machine. That led
me to figure out the assumed function of the little chrome-plated handle
shown in this picture, but despite loosening the two thumb screws, the
handle doesn't want to turn more than an 1/8". Where should I squirt some
lube to help free up this mechanism?

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon03.jpg

Anywho, I finally have a drill press that I can do some real work with.
Yay!

Jon

Jon Danniken wrote:
snip

I guess it is helpful to fill in the name field when I set up a new usenet
account.

Jon

"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...
Jon Danniken wrote:
snip

I guess it is helpful to fill in the name field when I set up a new usenet
account.

Jon


Looks good. Just a guess, but is the handle to tension the idler / belts, so
you'd expect it not to turn too much?

Try one of those directional reflector lamps, it may give you more light
where you need it.

Royston Vasey wrote:
"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...
Jon Danniken wrote:
snip

I guess it is helpful to fill in the name field when I set up a new
usenet account.

Jon


Looks good. Just a guess, but is the handle to tension the idler /
belts, so you'd expect it not to turn too much?

Aye, that's how it is described in the (HF model's) manual. I'll play with
it some more today when I build a shelf so it doesn't tower over me like
Godzilla.

Try one of those directional reflector lamps, it may give you more
light where you need it.

Sounds intriguing, gotta picture or a link? I was thinking about a quartz
lamp, they produce a bright light, but it would require a fan to keep it
cool and wouldn't be very safe.

Jon

On 2010-04-26, AIOE wrote:
I now own an old Rexon RDM-100A drill press, 1/2 hp, 14" swing, which I
acquired for sixty bucks. Not a Gunner/Iggy "take the machine, the car, and
my teenaged daughter" deal, but I am very happy.

I think that it is a great deal!

And I can buy your old DP if you are in Chicagoland.

i

Ignoramus3609 wrote:
On 2010-04-26, AIOE wrote:
I now own an old Rexon RDM-100A drill press, 1/2 hp, 14" swing,
which I acquired for sixty bucks. Not a Gunner/Iggy "take the
machine, the car, and my teenaged daughter" deal, but I am very
happy.

I think that it is a great deal!

And I can buy your old DP if you are in Chicagoland.

Heh, I thought of that! I'll likely keep the little guy for now, it's
pretty handy for keeping on the workbench, but we'll have to see where it
ends up in time. Once I get an adjacent lower shelf built for the big guy,
I may just end up using it for all of my drill press needs (and find the
resulting increase in workbench space too handy to pass up).

Jon

On 4/26/2010 5:51 AM, AIOE wrote:
(this message may duplicate from eternal-september when they get around to
sending it in a year or two)

(image links inline with text - questions towards the end)

======================

I have known for several years now that my little 1/4 hp, eight-inch swing
drill press was inadequate for all of my needs (especially the short swing)
My current project has put a head on this, so when providence lined me up a
suitable item, I followed through.

I now own an old Rexon RDM-100A drill press, 1/2 hp, 14" swing, which I
acquired for sixty bucks. Not a Gunner/Iggy "take the machine, the car, and
my teenaged daughter" deal, but I am very happy.

(...)

Congratulations!

That drill press will serve you well.
Probably even better than my 'King Kong' drill press has served me!

I was able to figure out that this machine is about the same as the current
Harbor Freight unit 38142, and have the manual for that machine. That led
me to figure out the assumed function of the little chrome-plated handle
shown in this picture, but despite loosening the two thumb screws, the
handle doesn't want to turn more than an 1/8". Where should I squirt some
lube to help free up this mechanism?

Have a look at page 5 of:
http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals...8999/38142.PDF

Sounds like the rods supporting the motor bracket need cleaning.
You may wish to tilt the machine horizontal so you can see under the
pulley cover easily.

Sounds like a couple vigorous applications of mineral spirits using an
acid brush would loosen the congealed grease sufficiently.


--Winston


--

Harley was venal, arrogant, despicable and a psychologist.
He was the second most redundant man I ever talked to.

Pete Snell wrote:
Nice catch Jon!

The handle is to adjust belt tension. I have a unit very similar to
yours but with a different name on it. ;-)

To change speeds; loosen the two thumb screws at the back, this will
allow the motor to slide forward, loosening the belts on the pulleys.
Put your belt on the desired pulley steps, then turn the handle to
push the motor back, which tensions the belts. Tighten the
thumbscrews to lock it and you're ready to drill.

On a side note, if the drive seems noisy, replace the drivebelts
with some good quality ones. The belts that came with it are probably
kinda 'lumpy'. I also had to replace the chuck on mine, as it was
pretty wonky, but it's given me great service over the years.

Thanks Pete. I'll play around with that later today and see if I can go
through the speeds on it. I was too excited yesterday to trust myself to do
anything beyond a little cleaning.

Jon

In article ,
"AIOE" wrote:

(this message may duplicate from eternal-september when they get around to
sending it in a year or two)

(image links inline with text - questions towards the end)

======================

I have known for several years now that my little 1/4 hp, eight-inch swing
drill press was inadequate for all of my needs (especially the short swing)
My current project has put a head on this, so when providence lined me up a
suitable item, I followed through.

I now own an old Rexon RDM-100A drill press, 1/2 hp, 14" swing, which I
acquired for sixty bucks. Not a Gunner/Iggy "take the machine, the car, and
my teenaged daughter" deal, but I am very happy.

It is still a bench-mount unit, but substantially larger than my old Delta.
It is sturdy enough to do what I need to do with it, but still portable
enough to yard into the carport when I need to do a job outside.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon01.jpg

There is still a Rexon company, and they may be able to provide the manual. But
the RDM-100A of today is not quite the beast you have.

http://www.rexon.net/product/european/b_rdm_100a.htm

They may have a US distributor. The URL doesn't work, but I didn't try the
phone number.


It also uses an idler pulley, so I now have 16 speeds instead of five, and
can be more precise in my feedrate selections.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon02.jpg

Something that I think is pretty neat is the built in location for a light
bulb (I'll need to work a spotlight in there on a hinge).

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon04.jpg

Use a small flood, not a spot, or the light in your eyes will interfere.


This is also the first drill press I have owned which uses a morse taper
(MT2) to accept the chuck arbor, so I will be able to mount drill bits using
collets in those cases when the chuck doesn't grip them tightly enough (what
all do I need to start working this angle?)

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon05.jpg

I see rust bleeding down the quill. It could use some cleaning and slathering
with Vactra #2 way oil. Start with WD40, as there may be water up there. Or
leave out in the sun for awhile.

The best solution to drill bits slipping in a chuck is to replace the chuck,
which is easy on a press with a taper. Most kinds of collet don't grip tightly
enough to prevent spinning, and spinning will ruin the collets.


I was able to figure out that this machine is about the same as the current
Harbor Freight unit 38142, and have the manual for that machine. That led
me to figure out the assumed function of the little chrome-plated handle
shown in this picture, but despite loosening the two thumb screws, the
handle doesn't want to turn more than an 1/8". Where should I squirt some
lube to help free up this mechanism?

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon03.jpg

The handle looks to be the release to allow the motor to move closer to the head
so the belts can be changed. It may require disassembly, cleaning, and
lubrication to free up.


Joe Gwinn

On Mon, 26 Apr 2010 05:51:36 -0700, AIOE wrote:
....
I now own an old Rexon RDM-100A drill press, 1/2 hp, 14" swing, which I
acquired for sixty bucks. [...]
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon01.jpg [...]
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon02.jpg [...]
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon04.jpg

This is also the first drill press I have owned which uses a morse taper
(MT2) to accept the chuck arbor, so I will be able to mount drill bits
using collets in those cases when the chuck doesn't grip them tightly
enough (what all do I need to start working this angle?)

Ordinarily you would use drill bits with MT2 shank, rather than
collets with MT2 shank. Visually similar to those at, eg,
http://www.patented-antiques.com/images/cyntools/XX-c-tools-on/c-drilltools/PA010165.JPG
That picture probably has both MT2 and MT1 bits; use an MT2-to-MT1
adapter for latter. Pictured at eg
http://cuttingtools.en.alibaba.com/viewimg/photo/265155899/morse_taper_sleeve_adapter.jpg.html

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon05.jpg

I was able to figure out that this machine is about the same as the
current Harbor Freight unit 38142, and have the manual for that machine.
That led me to figure out the assumed function of the little
chrome-plated handle shown in this picture, but despite loosening the
two thumb screws, the handle doesn't want to turn more than an 1/8".
Where should I squirt some lube to help free up this mechanism?

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon03.jpg

The belt-tensioning handle should move much more freely, possibly
simplifying lubrication, if you take off the back belt. After you
loosen the "motor adjusting knobs" (the thumb screws) push the motor
forward, take off the belts, push motor in and out, lube the slides,
from inside and outside the head, etc. Rather than using the
tensioning handle to tighten the belts after changing speeds, on my
drill press I use a small crowbar between the motor and the back of
the drill press head to hold tension while I tighten the two knobs.

--
jiw

"AIOE" wrote in message
...

I was able to figure out that this machine is about the same as the
current Harbor Freight unit 38142, and have the manual for that machine.
That led me to figure out the assumed function of the little chrome-plated
handle shown in this picture, but despite loosening the two thumb screws,
the handle doesn't want to turn more than an 1/8". Where should I squirt
some lube to help free up this mechanism?

If it really is like the HF press there should be a set screw on BOTH sides
of the drill press that needs to be loosened. I also use a box end wrench
as a cheater bar on the tightening handle.

Pete Snell wrote:

Nice catch Jon!

The handle is to adjust belt tension. I have a unit very similar to
yours but with a different name on it. ;-)

To change speeds; loosen the two thumb screws at the back, this will
allow the motor to slide forward, loosening the belts on the pulleys.
Put your belt on the desired pulley steps, then turn the handle to push
the motor back, which tensions the belts. Tighten the thumbscrews to
lock it and you're ready to drill.

On a side note, if the drive seems noisy, replace the drivebelts with
some good quality ones. The belts that came with it are probably kinda
'lumpy'. I also had to replace the chuck on mine, as it was pretty
wonky, but it's given me great service over the years.

Oh and BTW if you replace the light bulb with a smaller appliance
type bulb, you'll be less likely to smack it with something and break
it. DAMHIKT


I put a small floodlight in my drillpress so that all the light goes
down to the work, and not into my eyes.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

On Mon, 26 Apr 2010 05:51:36 -0700, "AIOE"
wrote:


I now own an old Rexon RDM-100A drill press, 1/2 hp, 14" swing, which I
acquired for sixty bucks. Not a Gunner/Iggy "take the machine, the car, and
my teenaged daughter" deal, but I am very happy.


That was pretty nearly a Gunner/Iggy deal. Very very well done!!



"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

On Mon, 26 Apr 2010 09:58:22 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:


The best solution to drill bits slipping in a chuck is to replace the chuck,
which is easy on a press with a taper. Most kinds of collet don't grip tightly
enough to prevent spinning, and spinning will ruin the collets.


If your chuck is in rough shape..Im sure Ive got a few extra Jacobs
chucks on MT2 stubs if you are interested in one. Might make you a good
deal on one G

Gunner


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

"AIOE" wrote in message
...
(this message may duplicate from eternal-september when they get around to
sending it in a year or two)

(image links inline with text - questions towards the end)

======================

I have known for several years now that my little 1/4 hp, eight-inch swing
drill press was inadequate for all of my needs (especially the short
swing) My current project has put a head on this, so when providence lined
me up a suitable item, I followed through.

I now own an old Rexon RDM-100A drill press, 1/2 hp, 14" swing, which I
acquired for sixty bucks. Not a Gunner/Iggy "take the machine, the car,
and my teenaged daughter" deal, but I am very happy.

It is still a bench-mount unit, but substantially larger than my old
Delta. It is sturdy enough to do what I need to do with it, but still
portable enough to yard into the carport when I need to do a job outside.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon01.jpg

It also uses an idler pulley, so I now have 16 speeds instead of five, and
can be more precise in my feedrate selections.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon02.jpg

Something that I think is pretty neat is the built in location for a light
bulb (I'll need to work a spotlight in there on a hinge).

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon04.jpg

This is also the first drill press I have owned which uses a morse taper
(MT2) to accept the chuck arbor, so I will be able to mount drill bits
using collets in those cases when the chuck doesn't grip them tightly
enough (what all do I need to start working this angle?)

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon05.jpg

I was able to figure out that this machine is about the same as the
current Harbor Freight unit 38142, and have the manual for that machine.
That led me to figure out the assumed function of the little chrome-plated
handle shown in this picture, but despite loosening the two thumb screws,
the handle doesn't want to turn more than an 1/8". Where should I squirt
some lube to help free up this mechanism?

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon03.jpg

Anywho, I finally have a drill press that I can do some real work with.
Yay!

Jon

Sadly, all new (even used) tools have a honeymoon expiration date. Just
like a new gal, you will soon become satiated and bored, and be looking for
bigger/better. Enjoy for as long as it lasts. The upside is that this is a
repeatable experience that is not nearly as costly as the real honeymoon
repeat scenario, and you can go out and do it again next week, and not be in
the doghouse with SWMBO all the time. Or, as in the case of some of them,
one strike and YER OUT! Sometimes unconscious for many minutes. ;-) And
then you wake up to a lawyer.

Steve

http://cabgbypasssurgery.com watch for the book

A fool shows his annoyance at once, but a prudent man overlooks an insult.

Collets aren't very useful in a drill press spindle. The taper in the
spindle is meant to accept drills with tapers on the shanks, or arbors to
mount chucks.

When you spot deals on drills with morse taper shanks, buy them for drill
press and lathe use. Many made in the USA by quality makers will probably
never completely wear out in your lifetime.

A 5/8" chuck will probably take care of most of your needs for drilling,
except for very small drills.

You might want to get a couple of Morse-to-Jacobs taper arbors (with tangs,
for removal) in the event you might need to use a very small chuck in the
future.

Twist drills aren't supposed to slip in chucks, ever. Tightening the drill
chuck in all 3 positions should eliminate any slippage.. if not, the chuck
is probably defective or just poorly made, time to get a good quality chuck.
Cleaning and lubrication may help, but a quality chuck in good condition
should give the best performance and least amount of aggravation.

For large drills that are likely to grab in thin workpieces, 3 flats can be
ground on the shanks with a Dremel or other suitable method.
For large drills that are only used in thin work, the drill points can be
reground with more point angle.

When using old drills that may have burrs on the shanks, always remove the
burrs with a file, just enough to restore the surface.
Badly damaged morse tapers (and arbors) should be avoided unless the taper
can be reground.

Nevermind using water as a lubricant. A reasonably good cutting lubricant is
the best choice. Not only is the drilling going to provide faster, easier
and better results.. your sharp drills will stay sharp longer.
There's not much point in trying to use dull drills, they'll most likely
just result in damage to the drill press.

--
WB
..........


"AIOE" wrote in message
...
(this message may duplicate from eternal-september when they get around to
sending it in a year or two)

(image links inline with text - questions towards the end)

======================

I have known for several years now that my little 1/4 hp, eight-inch swing
drill press was inadequate for all of my needs (especially the short
swing) My current project has put a head on this, so when providence lined
me up a suitable item, I followed through.

I now own an old Rexon RDM-100A drill press, 1/2 hp, 14" swing, which I
acquired for sixty bucks. Not a Gunner/Iggy "take the machine, the car,
and my teenaged daughter" deal, but I am very happy.

It is still a bench-mount unit, but substantially larger than my old
Delta. It is sturdy enough to do what I need to do with it, but still
portable enough to yard into the carport when I need to do a job outside.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon01.jpg

It also uses an idler pulley, so I now have 16 speeds instead of five, and
can be more precise in my feedrate selections.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon02.jpg

Something that I think is pretty neat is the built in location for a light
bulb (I'll need to work a spotlight in there on a hinge).

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon04.jpg

This is also the first drill press I have owned which uses a morse taper
(MT2) to accept the chuck arbor, so I will be able to mount drill bits
using collets in those cases when the chuck doesn't grip them tightly
enough (what all do I need to start working this angle?)

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon05.jpg

I was able to figure out that this machine is about the same as the
current Harbor Freight unit 38142, and have the manual for that machine.
That led me to figure out the assumed function of the little chrome-plated
handle shown in this picture, but despite loosening the two thumb screws,
the handle doesn't want to turn more than an 1/8". Where should I squirt
some lube to help free up this mechanism?

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon03.jpg

Anywho, I finally have a drill press that I can do some real work with.
Yay!

Jon

This is also the first drill press I have owned which uses a morse
taper (MT2) to accept the chuck arbor, so I will be able to mount
drill bits using collets in those cases when the chuck doesn't grip
them tightly enough (what all do I need to start working this angle?)

That's not likely to work for you, unless the press is an unusual one, or
you make some changes to it.

Most of those use tanged tapers. To use collets, you'll need to cobble up
a drawbar setup. It might not be too hard to do, since some presses have
bored spindles.

LLoyd

"Jon Danniken" wrote:

Ignoramus3609 wrote:
On 2010-04-26, AIOE wrote:
I now own an old Rexon RDM-100A drill press, 1/2 hp, 14" swing,
which I acquired for sixty bucks. Not a Gunner/Iggy "take the
machine, the car, and my teenaged daughter" deal, but I am very
happy.

I think that it is a great deal!

And I can buy your old DP if you are in Chicagoland.

Heh, I thought of that! I'll likely keep the little guy for now, it's
pretty handy for keeping on the workbench, but we'll have to see where it
ends up in time. Once I get an adjacent lower shelf built for the big guy,
I may just end up using it for all of my drill press needs (and find the
resulting increase in workbench space too handy to pass up).

Jon


Your little dp looks like a Ryobi. IIRC those have a fairly fast spindle speed which
would be useful for drilling holes with small drill bits. I'd just keep it for that sort
of work.

Wes

On 2010-04-26, AIOE wrote:
(this message may duplicate from eternal-september when they get around to
sending it in a year or two)

(image links inline with text - questions towards the end)

======================

I have known for several years now that my little 1/4 hp, eight-inch swing
drill press was inadequate for all of my needs (especially the short swing)
My current project has put a head on this, so when providence lined me up a
suitable item, I followed through.

I now own an old Rexon RDM-100A drill press, 1/2 hp, 14" swing, which I
acquired for sixty bucks. Not a Gunner/Iggy "take the machine, the car, and
my teenaged daughter" deal, but I am very happy.

O.K. It is similar to a Taiwanese drill press which I got for
about $150.00 back around 1975/76 or so -- except that mine is floor
standing.

Mine now has a nice Jacobs keyless chuck (similar to the
Albrecht ones in design and function), and the 5/8" chuck which came
with it stays within reach in case I really need it.

It is still a bench-mount unit, but substantially larger than my old Delta.
It is sturdy enough to do what I need to do with it, but still portable
enough to yard into the carport when I need to do a job outside.

O.K.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon01.jpg

It also uses an idler pulley, so I now have 16 speeds instead of five, and
can be more precise in my feedrate selections.

Good -- and can run slow enough for your 1" drill bits.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon02.jpg

Something that I think is pretty neat is the built in location for a light
bulb (I'll need to work a spotlight in there on a hinge).

I've simply put one of the monkey's fist style Compact
Fluorescents in it. That is short enough so it does not extend out
where it is easily broken, but casts lots of light without heating the
housing.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon04.jpg

This is also the first drill press I have owned which uses a morse taper
(MT2) to accept the chuck arbor, so I will be able to mount drill bits using
collets in those cases when the chuck doesn't grip them tightly enough (what
all do I need to start working this angle?)

What you need is a Morse Taper "key" -- a tapered wedge which is
put in one side and hit with a hammer to knock out the arbor or bit.

Note that you can get drill bits with direct MT-2 shanks up to
1" size, so you don't need the collets (which don't work as well in that
as in a milling spindle, because there is no provision for a drawbar).

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon05.jpg

I was able to figure out that this machine is about the same as the current
Harbor Freight unit 38142, and have the manual for that machine. That led
me to figure out the assumed function of the little chrome-plated handle
shown in this picture, but despite loosening the two thumb screws, the
handle doesn't want to turn more than an 1/8". Where should I squirt some
lube to help free up this mechanism?

It usually has a fairly lose link to the motor mount plate. And
it won't go very far with the belt in place and tight. Loosen the clamp
screws (one on either side of the back of the casting), and you should
be able to move the handle towards the back, which will pull the motor
towards the casting -- as long as there is room for it to travel. It
looks as though the motor mount plate is almost in contact with casting,
which suggests that a belt is too short, or it is on the wrong step.

IIRC, there are five steps on the spindle pulley and the idler,
and only four on the motor pulley, and you want the motor belt to be at
the same level on both ends. If someone replaced the motor, and the
motor pulley is mounted too low, the proper pulley steps won't line up.

There should be a map of belt settings inside the belt cover
giving more detail than the front label does.

Once you get the rear belt off you *should* be able to move the
lever towards the motor, moving the motor back away from the casting.
When you have it as far as you can get it, put some drops of oil on the
two round rods which the motor mount slides in the casting on, then
work it back and forth a few cycles to clean whatever grunge is on the
rods.

Then, look for a V-belt the right length -- perhaps an inch
longer than what you have in there at present.

Note that some speeds can result in the idler pulley rubbing
against the belt safety cover. I found the best way to fix that with
mine is to punch new holes in the bottom of the cover where the two
screws attach it to the casting, and the pivot rod for the idler goes
into the casting so the belt housing can be moved a bit more towards the
feed lever side of the casting and not rub.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon03.jpg

Anywho, I finally have a drill press that I can do some real work with.

Yes -- and get your 1" drill bit with a MT-2 shank instead of a
Silver & Demming reduced shank.

Only one choice -- MSC #01520642 -- import -- black oxide
finish, 118 degree point angle. $26.75 ea (get at least two, so if you
dull it part way through, you aren't stuck with nothing to do until you
sharpen it.

If you had a MT-3 spindle (neither do I, except in the lathe
tailstock) you would have 17 choices in the same size drill bit.

Hmm ... does your new drill press have enough stroke to drill
through both sides in one setup? That would save you some trouble with
the dowel fixturing. Put some 2x4 under it so you don't drill into the
table. Mine still has no "oops" holes in the table. :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Apr 26, 10:51*pm, "AIOE"
wrote:
(this message may duplicate from eternal-september when they get around to
sending it in a year or two)

(image links inline with text - questions towards the end)

======================

I have known for several years now that my little 1/4 hp, eight-inch swing
drill press was inadequate for all of my needs (especially the short swing)
My current project has put a head on this, so when providence lined me up a
suitable item, I followed through.

I now own an old Rexon RDM-100A drill press, 1/2 hp, 14" swing, which I
acquired for sixty bucks. Not a Gunner/Iggy "take the machine, the car, and
my teenaged daughter" deal, but I am very happy.

It is still a bench-mount unit, but substantially larger than my old Delta.
It is sturdy enough to do what I need to do with it, but still portable
enough to yard into the carport when I need to do a job outside.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon01.jpg

It also uses an idler pulley, so I now have 16 speeds instead of five, and
can be more precise in my feedrate selections.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon02.jpg

Something that I think is pretty neat is the built in location for a light
bulb (I'll need to work a spotlight in there on a hinge).

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon04.jpg

This is also the first drill press I have owned which uses a morse taper
(MT2) to accept the chuck arbor, so I will be able to mount drill bits using
collets in those cases when the chuck doesn't grip them tightly enough (what
all do I need to start working this angle?)

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon05.jpg

I was able to figure out that this machine is about the same as the current
Harbor Freight unit 38142, and have the manual for that machine. *That led
me to figure out the assumed function of the little chrome-plated handle
shown in this picture, but despite loosening the two thumb screws, the
handle doesn't want to turn more than an 1/8". *Where should I squirt some
lube to help free up this mechanism?

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon03.jpg

Anywho, I finally have a drill press that I can do some real work with.
Yay!

Jon

Hey, that was a good score - AND you were really lucky NOT to get the
teenage daughter as well, if you havent had one yourself, mm, ah,
yes, ..............you are blessed!!! (hopefully, they grow up to be
Human, rather than something just visiting from their home planet..)

Nice to have tools with a bit of grunt in them.

BTW - the car? - well, you know what a bull**** artist Gunner is,
wouldn't believe that bit. OK with the teenage daughter bit - anyone
want mine? - shes semi-house trained. (A lie well known to all
parents)

Andrew VK3BFA.

Wes wrote:
Your little dp looks like a Ryobi. IIRC those have a fairly fast
spindle speed which would be useful for drilling holes with small
drill bits. I'd just keep it for that sort of work.

Hi Wes, it is actually a Delta, but it certainly has it's use on my
workbench. It's light enough to just throw around, and gives me additional
accuracy that I can't get with any of the hand drills, so it will have
continue to have a place.

Jon

Winston wrote:
Have a look at page 5 of:
http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals...8999/38142.PDF

Sounds like the rods supporting the motor bracket need cleaning.
You may wish to tilt the machine horizontal so you can see under the
pulley cover easily.

Sounds like a couple vigorous applications of mineral spirits using an
acid brush would loosen the congealed grease sufficiently.

Hi Winston, and thanks. It was indeed those two rods which had rusted up in
the casing. Judicious application of squirting and wiping and moving the
lever eventually yielded the proper function, and I am now able to move the
motor in and out.

Got the belts off and cleaned up the idler pulley pinion, as well.

Jon

Pete Snell wrote:
Nice catch Jon!

The handle is to adjust belt tension. I have a unit very similar to
yours but with a different name on it. ;-)

To change speeds; loosen the two thumb screws at the back, this will
allow the motor to slide forward, loosening the belts on the pulleys.
Put your belt on the desired pulley steps, then turn the handle to
push the motor back, which tensions the belts. Tighten the
thumbscrews to lock it and you're ready to drill.

On a side note, if the drive seems noisy, replace the drivebelts
with some good quality ones. The belts that came with it are probably
kinda 'lumpy'. I also had to replace the chuck on mine, as it was
pretty wonky, but it's given me great service over the years.

Oh and BTW if you replace the light bulb with a smaller appliance
type bulb, you'll be less likely to smack it with something and break
it. DAMHIKT

Thanks Pete, I appreciate it. I actually pulled the bulb out yesterday just
before I yarded the unit out into the carport to brush the rust off of the
column.

It is a bit noisy, too; thanks for the tip about the belts.

Jon

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 26 Apr 2010 09:58:22 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:


The best solution to drill bits slipping in a chuck is to replace
the chuck, which is easy on a press with a taper. Most kinds of
collet don't grip tightly enough to prevent spinning, and spinning
will ruin the collets.


If your chuck is in rough shape..Im sure Ive got a few extra Jacobs
chucks on MT2 stubs if you are interested in one. Might make you a
good deal on one G

Aye, thanks Gunner, I appreciate that. The chuck on there now was a bit
rusty, but after a little squirt it's looking a lot better. It's a generic
chuck, but it doesn't show much wear that I can tell, similar to the whole
machine.

My guess is that this thing sat in a barn for most of its lift getting
knocked around, and being used as a table. Otherwise, most of the pieces
seem to show little wear (the table has nothing more than a few very light
surface scratches).

Jon

Wild_Bill wrote:
Collets aren't very useful in a drill press spindle. The taper in the
spindle is meant to accept drills with tapers on the shanks, or
arbors to mount chucks.

When you spot deals on drills with morse taper shanks, buy them for
drill press and lathe use. Many made in the USA by quality makers
will probably never completely wear out in your lifetime.

A 5/8" chuck will probably take care of most of your needs for
drilling, except for very small drills.

You might want to get a couple of Morse-to-Jacobs taper arbors (with
tangs, for removal) in the event you might need to use a very small
chuck in the future.

Twist drills aren't supposed to slip in chucks, ever. Tightening the
drill chuck in all 3 positions should eliminate any slippage.. if
not, the chuck is probably defective or just poorly made, time to get
a good quality chuck. Cleaning and lubrication may help, but a
quality chuck in good condition should give the best performance and
least amount of aggravation.
For large drills that are likely to grab in thin workpieces, 3 flats
can be ground on the shanks with a Dremel or other suitable method.
For large drills that are only used in thin work, the drill points
can be reground with more point angle.

When using old drills that may have burrs on the shanks, always
remove the burrs with a file, just enough to restore the surface.
Badly damaged morse tapers (and arbors) should be avoided unless the
taper can be reground.

Nevermind using water as a lubricant. A reasonably good cutting
lubricant is the best choice. Not only is the drilling going to
provide faster, easier and better results.. your sharp drills will
stay sharp longer. There's not much point in trying to use dull drills,
they'll most
likely just result in damage to the drill press.

Ah, thanks Bill, that is all good to know. I will yield to consensus and
pick up some proper lubricant for drilling adventures.

I never knew about tightening up the chuck in all three places - thanks a
TON for that one!

Jon

DoN. Nichols wrote:

Yes -- and get your 1" drill bit with a MT-2 shank instead of a
Silver & Demming reduced shank.

Only one choice -- MSC #01520642 -- import -- black oxide
finish, 118 degree point angle. $26.75 ea (get at least two, so if
you dull it part way through, you aren't stuck with nothing to do
until you sharpen it.

If you had a MT-3 spindle (neither do I, except in the lathe
tailstock) you would have 17 choices in the same size drill bit.

Hmm ... does your new drill press have enough stroke to drill
through both sides in one setup? That would save you some trouble
with the dowel fixturing. Put some 2x4 under it so you don't drill
into the table. Mine still has no "oops" holes in the table. :-)

Hi Don, and thanks, I appreciate it. The new press has a respectable 3-3/8"
plunge, which is considerably longer than my last press, and you bring up a
Very Important Point that has an effect on the drilling operation for my
current project.

First, I may end up using 2-1/2" square steel tubing instead of 3" (for a
number of benefits), which would entail switching over to a 3/4" hole
(instead of a 1" hole).

The new press obviously has the plunge reach to push the bit through both
sides of 2-1/2" square tube, but will that the right procedure?

I will obviously spot drill one side of the tubing, and start drilling
through that side, but then if I continue on through the tubing to drill out
the other side, the bit will be starting in flat "un-spotted/un-punched"
metal.

My concern is that the bit will wander, but perhaps the size of the bit
(3/4") means it is stiff enough to resist skating. Also, perhaps the top
hole will serve as a drill bushing and keep the bit aligned all the way
through.

It would most certainly make my work a lot easier, more than twice as easy,
actually, and even a little more, since it would eliminate the second
spotting procedure for the other side.

Thank you for bringing this up,

Jon

James Waldby wrote:
Ordinarily you would use drill bits with MT2 shank, rather than
collets with MT2 shank. Visually similar to those at, eg,
http://www.patented-antiques.com/images/cyntools/XX-c-tools-on/c-drilltools/PA010165.JPG
That picture probably has both MT2 and MT1 bits; use an MT2-to-MT1
adapter for latter. Pictured at eg
http://cuttingtools.en.alibaba.com/v...apter.jpg.html

Ah, thanks James, that makes a lot more sense now. It looks like there will
be some new drill bits in my future, and with fancy ends, to boot!

Jon

On 4/27/2010 7:15 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:

(...)

Hi Winston, and thanks. It was indeed those two rods which had rusted up in
the casing. Judicious application of squirting and wiping and moving the
lever eventually yielded the proper function, and I am now able to move the
motor in and out.

Got the belts off and cleaned up the idler pulley pinion, as well.

Good on ya!

--Winston


--

Harley was venal, arrogant, despicable and a psychologist.
He was the second most redundant man I ever talked to.

On Tue, 27 Apr 2010 06:15:55 -0700 (PDT), Andrew VK3BFA
wrote:

On Apr 26, 10:51*pm, "AIOE"
wrote:
(this message may duplicate from eternal-september when they get around to
sending it in a year or two)

(image links inline with text - questions towards the end)

======================

I have known for several years now that my little 1/4 hp, eight-inch swing
drill press was inadequate for all of my needs (especially the short swing)
My current project has put a head on this, so when providence lined me up a
suitable item, I followed through.

I now own an old Rexon RDM-100A drill press, 1/2 hp, 14" swing, which I
acquired for sixty bucks. Not a Gunner/Iggy "take the machine, the car, and
my teenaged daughter" deal, but I am very happy.

It is still a bench-mount unit, but substantially larger than my old Delta.
It is sturdy enough to do what I need to do with it, but still portable
enough to yard into the carport when I need to do a job outside.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon01.jpg

It also uses an idler pulley, so I now have 16 speeds instead of five, and
can be more precise in my feedrate selections.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon02.jpg

Something that I think is pretty neat is the built in location for a light
bulb (I'll need to work a spotlight in there on a hinge).

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon04.jpg

This is also the first drill press I have owned which uses a morse taper
(MT2) to accept the chuck arbor, so I will be able to mount drill bits using
collets in those cases when the chuck doesn't grip them tightly enough (what
all do I need to start working this angle?)

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon05.jpg

I was able to figure out that this machine is about the same as the current
Harbor Freight unit 38142, and have the manual for that machine. *That led
me to figure out the assumed function of the little chrome-plated handle
shown in this picture, but despite loosening the two thumb screws, the
handle doesn't want to turn more than an 1/8". *Where should I squirt some
lube to help free up this mechanism?

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon03.jpg

Anywho, I finally have a drill press that I can do some real work with.
Yay!

Jon

Hey, that was a good score - AND you were really lucky NOT to get the
teenage daughter as well, if you havent had one yourself, mm, ah,
yes, ..............you are blessed!!! (hopefully, they grow up to be
Human, rather than something just visiting from their home planet..)

Nice to have tools with a bit of grunt in them.

BTW - the car? - well, you know what a bull**** artist Gunner is,
wouldn't believe that bit. OK with the teenage daughter bit - anyone
want mine? - shes semi-house trained. (A lie well known to all
parents)

Andrew VK3BFA.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch

G

Gunner


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

On Tue, 27 Apr 2010 07:27:13 -0700, "Jon Danniken"
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 26 Apr 2010 09:58:22 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:


The best solution to drill bits slipping in a chuck is to replace
the chuck, which is easy on a press with a taper. Most kinds of
collet don't grip tightly enough to prevent spinning, and spinning
will ruin the collets.


If your chuck is in rough shape..Im sure Ive got a few extra Jacobs
chucks on MT2 stubs if you are interested in one. Might make you a
good deal on one G

Aye, thanks Gunner, I appreciate that. The chuck on there now was a bit
rusty, but after a little squirt it's looking a lot better. It's a generic
chuck, but it doesn't show much wear that I can tell, similar to the whole
machine.

My guess is that this thing sat in a barn for most of its lift getting
knocked around, and being used as a table. Otherwise, most of the pieces
seem to show little wear (the table has nothing more than a few very light
surface scratches).

Jon

That drill press has had at least..least 8 different labels on it that
Im aware of.

I had two of them years ago, each identical but for the label on the
front of it. Sold one, gave one away to a friend when I upgraded to
bigger drill presses.

They are a decent drill press and if you take care of them, will last
you a very long long time.

Ever need that chuck and MT2 taper, simply let me know.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch

Gunner


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

On 2010-04-27, Jon Danniken wrote:
DoN. Nichols wrote:

Yes -- and get your 1" drill bit with a MT-2 shank instead of a
Silver & Demming reduced shank.

Only one choice -- MSC #01520642 -- import -- black oxide
finish, 118 degree point angle. $26.75 ea (get at least two, so if
you dull it part way through, you aren't stuck with nothing to do
until you sharpen it.

[ ... ]

Hmm ... does your new drill press have enough stroke to drill
through both sides in one setup? That would save you some trouble
with the dowel fixturing. Put some 2x4 under it so you don't drill
into the table. Mine still has no "oops" holes in the table. :-)

Hi Don, and thanks, I appreciate it. The new press has a respectable 3-3/8"
plunge, which is considerably longer than my last press, and you bring up a
Very Important Point that has an effect on the drilling operation for my
current project.

First, I may end up using 2-1/2" square steel tubing instead of 3" (for a
number of benefits), which would entail switching over to a 3/4" hole
(instead of a 1" hole).

O.K.

The new press obviously has the plunge reach to push the bit through both
sides of 2-1/2" square tube, but will that the right procedure?

I believe so. It will generate less position error than having
to start a second hole on the other side.

I will obviously spot drill one side of the tubing, and start drilling
through that side, but then if I continue on through the tubing to drill out
the other side, the bit will be starting in flat "un-spotted/un-punched"
metal.

My concern is that the bit will wander, but perhaps the size of the bit
(3/4") means it is stiff enough to resist skating. Also, perhaps the top
hole will serve as a drill bushing and keep the bit aligned all the way
through.

The "bushing effect" from the top hole will make up for a lot
with a bit that size.

The first bit in MSC of that size is #01520485 at $19.33
(Smaller gets cheaper fast.) There are 18 bits in the web page, ranging
up to $324.08 as one of the "Non Catalog Items". None of them are
described as split point, and the illustrations are not clear enough to
let me tell from them.

If you could get one with a split point, you would not have any
problems with it walking. I've even drilled a 1/16" hole in a 1/4" rod
supporting a bearing on my garage door track -- using a hand held
electric drill, and I had no problems with it walking without center
punching beforehand.

It would most certainly make my work a lot easier, more than twice as easy,
actually, and even a little more, since it would eliminate the second
spotting procedure for the other side.

I would say that you can get away with it, because the drill is
being supported less than 2-1/2" from the drill point. Even if the
quill has a lot of slop in the casting the first hole will serve as a
one-shot bushing while you start the second side hole.

Others have mentioned vises. I didn't because your original
fixture would prevent it being spun. And with that long a workpiece,
putting the side of the workpiece against the left hand side of the
column will control the spinning anyway. (It won't control the
workpiece lifting as the bit breaks through, however.) So if you can
get a lever operating drill press vise of reasonable size, and bolt
that down to the table, you should be fine. (Remember to lock the table
pivot under the table since yours, like mine, is a round table which
can spin in its mount if not clamped.)

For a nice lever-operating vise, take a look at MSC # 09145566.

There are several sizes, and this one looks as though it will
work well for your 2-1/2" square steel tubing. It has a throat depth of
1-13/16" which should be plenty. (It is similar to an old one with a
Craftsman name which I picked up at a metalworking club meeting about a
year ago and which is my favorite drill press vise. This one would be
better in that it has more choices for clamping it to the table.

The price, however, is perhaps enough to send you elsewhe

$283.94

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Gunner Asch wrote:

That drill press has had at least..least 8 different labels on it that
Im aware of.

I had two of them years ago, each identical but for the label on the
front of it. Sold one, gave one away to a friend when I upgraded to
bigger drill presses.

They are a decent drill press and if you take care of them, will last
you a very long long time.

Ever need that chuck and MT2 taper, simply let me know.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch


Thanks Gunner, I appreciate that. You have some serious looking chucks
there!

Jon

DoN. Nichols wrote:
Jon Danniken wrote:

My concern is that the bit will wander, but perhaps the size of the
bit (3/4") means it is stiff enough to resist skating. Also,
perhaps the top hole will serve as a drill bushing and keep the bit
aligned all the way through.

The "bushing effect" from the top hole will make up for a lot
with a bit that size.

The first bit in MSC of that size is #01520485 at $19.33
(Smaller gets cheaper fast.) There are 18 bits in the web page,
ranging up to $324.08 as one of the "Non Catalog Items". None of
them are described as split point, and the illustrations are not
clear enough to let me tell from them.

If you could get one with a split point, you would not have any
problems with it walking. I've even drilled a 1/16" hole in a 1/4"
rod supporting a bearing on my garage door track -- using a hand held
electric drill, and I had no problems with it walking without center
punching beforehand.

It would most certainly make my work a lot easier, more than twice
as easy, actually, and even a little more, since it would eliminate
the second spotting procedure for the other side.

I would say that you can get away with it, because the drill is
being supported less than 2-1/2" from the drill point. Even if the
quill has a lot of slop in the casting the first hole will serve as a
one-shot bushing while you start the second side hole.

Thanks Don, I appreciate it. I found a suitably-sized MT2-shanked bit on
ebay, so we'll have to see how it's going to work out. Fortunately the
application isn't _too_ demanding of precision, so I'll know after a few
test pokes if it's going to work.

Others have mentioned vises. I didn't because your original
fixture would prevent it being spun. And with that long a workpiece,
putting the side of the workpiece against the left hand side of the
column will control the spinning anyway. (It won't control the
workpiece lifting as the bit breaks through, however.) So if you can
get a lever operating drill press vise of reasonable size, and bolt
that down to the table, you should be fine. (Remember to lock the
table pivot under the table since yours, like mine, is a round table
which can spin in its mount if not clamped.)

For a nice lever-operating vise, take a look at MSC # 09145566.

There are several sizes, and this one looks as though it will
work well for your 2-1/2" square steel tubing. It has a throat depth
of 1-13/16" which should be plenty. (It is similar to an old one
with a Craftsman name which I picked up at a metalworking club
meeting about a year ago and which is my favorite drill press vise.
This one would be better in that it has more choices for clamping it
to the table.

The price, however, is perhaps enough to send you elsewhe

$283.94

Aye, as much as I'd like to furnish my new tool with some well-needed
accessories, I'm relegated to cobbling up jigs for the time being, at least
as far as it is reasonably practical. Along those lines, I'm thinking of
using two sections of tubing (or very sturdy angle stock) bolted securely to
the table, leaving a channel between them to slide the long tubing to be
drilled through.

The long section to be drilled will already be scribed and punched, and I'll
tap it with a hammer from either end as required to encourage it into the
correct position. I'll come up with some means to secure it from rising up
off of the table in order to prevent a surprise when the bit pushes out of
it's hole.

Thanks again,

Jon

On 2010-04-28, Jon Danniken wrote:
DoN. Nichols wrote:
Jon Danniken wrote:

My concern is that the bit will wander, but perhaps the size of the
bit (3/4") means it is stiff enough to resist skating. Also,
perhaps the top hole will serve as a drill bushing and keep the bit
aligned all the way through.

The "bushing effect" from the top hole will make up for a lot
with a bit that size.

[ ... ]

I would say that you can get away with it, because the drill is
being supported less than 2-1/2" from the drill point. Even if the
quill has a lot of slop in the casting the first hole will serve as a
one-shot bushing while you start the second side hole.

Thanks Don, I appreciate it. I found a suitably-sized MT2-shanked bit on
ebay, so we'll have to see how it's going to work out. Fortunately the
application isn't _too_ demanding of precision, so I'll know after a few
test pokes if it's going to work.

O.K. And you should still try the UniBit step drill in the
material. I think that you'll like how it behaves. (And your work
won't be trying to climb the spiral when it breaks through.)

Others have mentioned vises. I didn't because your original
fixture would prevent it being spun. And with that long a workpiece,

[ ... ]

For a nice lever-operating vise, take a look at MSC # 09145566.

[ ... ]

The price, however, is perhaps enough to send you elsewhe

$283.94

Aye, as much as I'd like to furnish my new tool with some well-needed
accessories, I'm relegated to cobbling up jigs for the time being, at least
as far as it is reasonably practical. Along those lines, I'm thinking of
using two sections of tubing (or very sturdy angle stock) bolted securely to
the table, leaving a channel between them to slide the long tubing to be
drilled through.

The long section to be drilled will already be scribed and punched, and I'll
tap it with a hammer from either end as required to encourage it into the
correct position. I'll come up with some means to secure it from rising up
off of the table in order to prevent a surprise when the bit pushes out of
it's hole.

O.K. For that, make an extra bolt through one of the guide
pipes, and a strap of steel to pivot over the workpiece to keep it from
lifting. Better if you have two about equidistant on either side of the
drill bit. And remember the sacrificial length of 2x4 under the
workpiece -- unless you carefully position the table so the center hole
will pass the drill bit. It would be a shame to drill dings into a
drill press table which has lasted unscarred this many years (based on
its appearance and its similarity to my 1975/76 one). :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Tue, 27 Apr 2010 19:54:29 -0700, "Jon Danniken"
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:

That drill press has had at least..least 8 different labels on it that
Im aware of.

I had two of them years ago, each identical but for the label on the
front of it. Sold one, gave one away to a friend when I upgraded to
bigger drill presses.

They are a decent drill press and if you take care of them, will last
you a very long long time.

Ever need that chuck and MT2 taper, simply let me know.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch


Thanks Gunner, I appreciate that. You have some serious looking chucks
there!

Jon

The big ones only go up to 3/4"

G

Gunner


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

O.K. For that, make an extra bolt through one of the guide
pipes, and a strap of steel to pivot over the workpiece to keep it from
lifting. Better if you have two about equidistant on either side of the
drill bit. And remember the sacrificial length of 2x4 under the
workpiece -- unless you carefully position the table so the center hole
will pass the drill bit. It would be a shame to drill dings into a
drill press table which has lasted unscarred this many years (based on
its appearance and its similarity to my 1975/76 one). :-)


People always give me strange looks when they see a small pile of
scrap wood under my drill press. They also laugh when they find out
that I clean and wax new tools to protect them.

On 4/26/2010 10:21 PM, AIOE wrote:
(this message may duplicate from eternal-september when they get around to
sending it in a year or two)

(image links inline with text - questions towards the end)

======================

I

This is also the first drill press I have owned which uses a morse taper
(MT2) to accept the chuck arbor, so I will be able to mount drill bits using
collets in those cases when the chuck doesn't grip them tightly enough (what
all do I need to start working this angle?)


The drill dosent take morse collets like those used in lathe .It uses
morse taper sleeves ,so you can use larger drills with MT2 tapered
shanks and MT1 tapered shanks with a MT2 to MT1 reducer sleeve

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon05.jpg

I was able to figure out that this machine is about the same as the current
Harbor Freight unit 38142, and have the manual for that machine. That led
me to figure out the assumed function of the little chrome-plated handle
shown in this picture, but despite loosening the two thumb screws, the
handle doesn't want to turn more than an 1/8". Where should I squirt some
lube to help free up this mechanism?

The little handle works on a cam that pushes the motor mount back to
tighten the belts . Probably just squirt some anti rust lube on the
motor mount shafts that are supposed to slide in and out of the head
casting,and around the handle and let it soak .

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon03.jpg

Anywho, I finally have a drill press that I can do some real work with.
Yay!

Jon




--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."

On 4/27/2010 11:54 PM, Jon Danniken wrote:
Pete Snell wrote:
Nice catch Jon!

The handle is to adjust belt tension. I have a unit very similar to
yours but with a different name on it. ;-)

To change speeds; loosen the two thumb screws at the back, this will
allow the motor to slide forward, loosening the belts on the pulleys.
Put your belt on the desired pulley steps, then turn the handle to
push the motor back, which tensions the belts. Tighten the
thumbscrews to lock it and you're ready to drill.

On a side note, if the drive seems noisy, replace the drivebelts
with some good quality ones. The belts that came with it are probably
kinda 'lumpy'. I also had to replace the chuck on mine, as it was
pretty wonky, but it's given me great service over the years.

Oh and BTW if you replace the light bulb with a smaller appliance
type bulb, you'll be less likely to smack it with something and break
it. DAMHIKT

Thanks Pete, I appreciate it. I actually pulled the bulb out yesterday just
before I yarded the unit out into the carport to brush the rust off of the
column.

It is a bit noisy, too; thanks for the tip about the belts.

Jon


Could be the idler pulley bearing , I found on my rexxon the same .I
took the pulley out and found only one bearing , I machined the pulley
out to take two bearings and it quietened down by 40 points on the
Richter scale.

--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."

On 4/28/2010 12:13 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:




My concern is that the bit will wander, but perhaps the size of the bit
(3/4") means it is stiff enough to resist skating. Also, perhaps the top
hole will serve as a drill bushing and keep the bit aligned all the way
through.

It would most certainly make my work a lot easier, more than twice as easy,
actually, and even a little more, since it would eliminate the second
spotting procedure for the other side.

Thank you for bringing this up,

Jon



drill a pilot hole with a smaller drill first say 5/16 or 3/8 right
through.Then use the 3/4 to finish to the correct size.
If the 3/4 drill chatters on entry to the piloy hole get asmall piece of
heavy cloth ,like denim from old jeans and put it over the hole double
thick ness then drill the hole.

--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."

On Apr 28, 4:32*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 27 Apr 2010 06:15:55 -0700 (PDT), Andrew VK3BFA



wrote:
On Apr 26, 10:51*pm, "AIOE"

Jon

Hey, that was a good score - AND you were really lucky NOT to get the
teenage daughter as well, if you havent had one yourself, mm, ah,
yes, ..............you are blessed!!! (hopefully, they grow up to be
Human, rather than something just visiting from their home planet..)

Nice to have tools with a bit of grunt in them.

BTW - the car? - well, you know what a bull**** artist Gunner is,
wouldn't believe that bit. OK with the teenage daughter bit - anyone
want mine? *- shes semi-house trained. (A lie well known to all
parents)

Andrew VK3BFA.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch

G

Gunner


Do you know how long it takes to cut out those huge, meaninglessly
verbose tag lines Gunner - bloody hell! (get some new, shorter ones,
ok?) Browsed through your album too - thanks, you got a LOTTA
interesting stuff. Your Honda XL350 - if its the wear of the head
where the cam sat, you can line bore it out and fit needle bearings -
just Google it - maybe you got a mill and tooling and setup plates to
do it....would be a bugger to set up, ...you would be up for a pair of
bearings, maybe cam rebuilding, but you would have a good, honest
bike at the end of it.
The Enfield - who the hell got to it, what were they trying to do, its
bloody awful. (Typical English crap too - worn out tooling, poor
castings, archaic work practices, leaked from brand new, poor choice
and use of materials..no technical (or managerial) advances since the
Great War, no wonder the Japs devastated them...) Do the Honda first,
lot easier. Dont be slack - just do it!


Andrew VK3BFA.