On 4/26/2010 8:02 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Winston wrote:
On 4/26/2010 7:27 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/26/2010 9:09 AM, Winston wrote:
The proper answer is 'buy or borrow a table saw with a dado blade'.

However, I don't want to.

Typically what would be done on site by an experienced framing crew
would be a circular saw to make multiple, close together shoulder
cuts at the proper depth, and a chisel to finish chopping the
residue of these cuts out.

Just one of many options ...


I will give that a try.

After popping the uncut parts with a chisel, use a shoemaker's rasp (AKA 4
in hand rasp) to smooth the bottoms.
http://www.dick.biz/medias/sys_maste..._01_P_WE_8.jpg

Hokay.

This morning, I followed the technique mentioned by
you, Swingman and Anthony. (Thanks)

I have a confession to make. I am not Roy Underhill.

I'm an electronics tech with zero woodworking chops.

I placed the cuts at depth and chipped out the scrap between cuts.
So I got the general idea. I see that if I spent say 10 min. with a rasp
as suggested, I would eventually arrive at a surface flat enough to allow
a halfway decent looking workpiece, though I am dubious about my ability
to do that *twice*.

I've got 16 of these to do. Unlike you, my 'thrill of
creation' happens with other hardware and not with wood so much.

So next, I will try J. Clarke's suggestion because that sounds like it
would give me a good chance at a flat face surface, quickly.
I can afford to 'notch' the material then slice off the end if necessary.
Raw material is cheap. Time and talent are all but nonexistent here.

Thank you for your help, guys.

--Winston




--

Harley was venal, arrogant, despicable and a psychologist.
He was the second most redundant man I ever talked to.