Collets aren't very useful in a drill press spindle. The taper in the
spindle is meant to accept drills with tapers on the shanks, or arbors to
mount chucks.
When you spot deals on drills with morse taper shanks, buy them for drill
press and lathe use. Many made in the USA by quality makers will probably
never completely wear out in your lifetime.
A 5/8" chuck will probably take care of most of your needs for drilling,
except for very small drills.
You might want to get a couple of Morse-to-Jacobs taper arbors (with tangs,
for removal) in the event you might need to use a very small chuck in the
future.
Twist drills aren't supposed to slip in chucks, ever. Tightening the drill
chuck in all 3 positions should eliminate any slippage.. if not, the chuck
is probably defective or just poorly made, time to get a good quality chuck.
Cleaning and lubrication may help, but a quality chuck in good condition
should give the best performance and least amount of aggravation.
For large drills that are likely to grab in thin workpieces, 3 flats can be
ground on the shanks with a Dremel or other suitable method.
For large drills that are only used in thin work, the drill points can be
reground with more point angle.
When using old drills that may have burrs on the shanks, always remove the
burrs with a file, just enough to restore the surface.
Badly damaged morse tapers (and arbors) should be avoided unless the taper
can be reground.
Nevermind using water as a lubricant. A reasonably good cutting lubricant is
the best choice. Not only is the drilling going to provide faster, easier
and better results.. your sharp drills will stay sharp longer.
There's not much point in trying to use dull drills, they'll most likely
just result in damage to the drill press.
--
WB
..........
"AIOE" wrote in message
...
(this message may duplicate from eternal-september when they get around to
sending it in a year or two)
(image links inline with text - questions towards the end)
======================
I have known for several years now that my little 1/4 hp, eight-inch swing
drill press was inadequate for all of my needs (especially the short
swing) My current project has put a head on this, so when providence lined
me up a suitable item, I followed through.
I now own an old Rexon RDM-100A drill press, 1/2 hp, 14" swing, which I
acquired for sixty bucks. Not a Gunner/Iggy "take the machine, the car,
and my teenaged daughter" deal, but I am very happy.
It is still a bench-mount unit, but substantially larger than my old
Delta. It is sturdy enough to do what I need to do with it, but still
portable enough to yard into the carport when I need to do a job outside.
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon01.jpg
It also uses an idler pulley, so I now have 16 speeds instead of five, and
can be more precise in my feedrate selections.
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon02.jpg
Something that I think is pretty neat is the built in location for a light
bulb (I'll need to work a spotlight in there on a hinge).
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon04.jpg
This is also the first drill press I have owned which uses a morse taper
(MT2) to accept the chuck arbor, so I will be able to mount drill bits
using collets in those cases when the chuck doesn't grip them tightly
enough (what all do I need to start working this angle?)
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon05.jpg
I was able to figure out that this machine is about the same as the
current Harbor Freight unit 38142, and have the manual for that machine.
That led me to figure out the assumed function of the little chrome-plated
handle shown in this picture, but despite loosening the two thumb screws,
the handle doesn't want to turn more than an 1/8". Where should I squirt
some lube to help free up this mechanism?
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Rexon03.jpg
Anywho, I finally have a drill press that I can do some real work with.
Yay!
Jon