Swingman said:

No problem ... 30' out the back door, in freezing snow and rain, uphill both
ways, had to fight my way through piles of reindeer crap that fell off the
roof .. but for you, nothing's too tough! ;)

Aw, gee... blush You're to good to me...
Well, at least if you had to scrape reindeer poop off your shoes,
Santa must have made a visit. Or maybe he just mistook your shop for a
waste dump. g

On mine the mechanism that holds each cool block is basically a short square
tube. When tightened from the front, the cool blocks are pushed against the
back of the square tube, automatically squaring them perfectly with the
blade.

It wouldn't make any difference if they were only 1/4" square, when
tightened they would still be square to the blade

If you have a newer model, perhaps that mechanism is different?

I don't think they have changed the basic configuration, but I could
be wrong. Cheapened it, perhaps. The screws press the block against
the back OK, but they still rock axially - top and bottom. Makes the
block wear crooked and pinches the blade if you don't install them
tilted - with the slop removed.

Anyway, I shimmed them and just finished cutting up a 12" x 2' oak
'log'. I was actually amazed that this cheap saw actually
accomplished the task with very little effort. The WoodSlicer blade
cuts extremely quietly, and has little lead. I am impressed.

Unfortunately, the oak had tons of worm tracks through it, so I guess
it was of benefit only as learning experience. (The wood sat outside
for 8 months.) It would have been better used as a turning blank - or
firewood. Norm would like it, however - he likes those worm holes.

Incidentally, do you know of a source on the web that covers the
basics of selecting and re-sawing wood - the procedures for selecting
which face to cut for the best yield, grain patterns and such?

Thanks again,
Greg


Greg G.