Jules Richardson wrote in
:

Hmm, aren't those diagonal braces the wrong way round?

Yes! I didn't notice that...

Regarding vertical braces, I'm not sure they do add much to the
strength. They'll reduce the tendency to warp or for the door to
twist, but you can probably do without them if you want given that
you've got an inch of material already.

Glad to hear someone support this notion. If the finished door seems too
twisty or flimsy, I can add vertical jambs

As for hinges, hard to tell how big is "big enough", although I think
I'd use three per door. Like you say, mountings are more important. I
think when I come to rebuild my garage doors I'll put metal plates on
the reverse side of the doors and bolt the hinges right through the
doors and the plates behind (ditto with the jambs).

Luckily, I had a real life pair of wooden garage doors (on a gargae I
have access to) to look at for guidance. They are obviously quite old,
maybe 20 years, and are still working fine, and still fit well. They have
two hinges per door, but they are hefty items, with square holes to take
coach bolts.

Two hinges per door will hopefully be adequate, because I'm now planning
on only two horizontals per door, with one diagonal brace per door (after
reading some of the comments here). Each hinge will be bolted through a
horizontal, of course.

Here's what I bought (though I got mine from Jewsons at a lower price):
http://tinyurl.com/yfakzzl

One thing that I'm pondering about is the "axle housings" for want of a
better term. They screw onto the outside face of the door frame, using 6
crews. That is obviously the Achilles heel, security-wise, unless the
screws are made unscrewable somehow, after they are in place. To achieve
this, I'm thinking filling the slots with epoxy or even butchering the
slots with a drill to render the slots useless. Anyone got other methods
to share?

Al