On Mar 28, 3:53*pm, "
wrote:
On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 11:01:28 -0700 (PDT), GarageWoodworks
wrote:
On Mar 28, 1:34*pm, Dave Balderstone
wrote:
In article ,
" wrote:
On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 06:44:58 -0700 (PDT), GarageWoodworks
wrote:
On Mar 27, 3:43*am, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
Just put this together:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
Comments welcomed.
Thanks to all that checked out the video! *Like I said at the end,
there are a half-dozen other ways to do this, but this is my
preferred.
I sincerely appreciate your feedback.
--with the exception of one mean dude. *:^(
I really like your videos and have learned a lot from them (and will review
them as needed 
. *I too was disappointed in the "sneak up on" advice. That's
the part that always bites me. *The jig is a fantastic idea (a hint on how to
make them would be nice) and I'll steal that part, however I'll do my best to
figure out a way around the "sneak up on" part. *
IS there a reason you used such a small router bit? *It would seem like a 1/2"
bit in a 3/4" bushing, or some such, would be easier and give a known "sneak
up" factor.
Those are the same questions I have. Why sneak up rather than make the
line the first cut?
And the small bit had me pondering too.
The jigs are great, but I don't really get the rest of the technique.
It seems to me with a bit more thought they could be modified to
eliminate the sneaking.
I don't own the appropriate guide bushing. *Would love to hear any
suggestions regarding the sneaking up other than "use an indexing
pin". * Where would you put an indexing pin?
Oh, I thought bushings came is sets of every reasonable size.
Yes, they do come in sets. And, no, they do not contain every size
bushing you will ever need. Aside from differing in diameter, they
also differ in height. My larger diameter bushings are too tall (it
would hit the stock).
*For small parts, how about a stop on the back edge of the jig with a spacer equal to the
radii of the bushing-bit? *Align the stop block to the distance from the cut
to be opposite end and add the spacer to push the work the proper distance
(further) into the bit. *
You would need to be able to remove it when doing the opposite side
and be able to put in a second one for the other half-lap. Remember
the same jig is used twice. One for the 45 half-lap and one for the
90 half-lap.
Plus your solution would only work for short stock. My train table
stock shown in the video was quite long.
Or, perhaps for larger pieces, or where the opposite end isn't yet finished,
marks on the jig placed radius(bushing)-radius(bit) apart. *Clamp and have at
it.
This sounds a little better.
IMHO, I think 'we' are making to much of the "sneaking up" on it
maneuver. There's nothing to it. This isn't brain surgery. :^)
...just thinking. *I really do like the jigs, though. *Do you make them at one
time and then cut in half?
I made them several years ago and I honestly don't remember. I would
make them independently to make things easier (probably what I did).