Steve W. wrote:
Bob Engelhardt wrote:
OK, from what Ed & Tim said, I do want something harder than mild steel,
so that it won't "yield" as soon as mild steel would.

As to heat treating facilities, well, minimal - maximum heat capability
is propane forge. Obviously no automatic temp control.

As to what I'm making: it's for taking down tin ceilings. The ceilings
will be salvaged, so the specifics of the tool are needed to minimize
damage. The bar needs to be about 16" long, to reach over the back of a
24" tile. It needs to have a long taper, coming to a thin edge, to work
under the nails without distorting the tin. One edge needs to be 3/4"
wide to fit into a nailing space. One end will be straight & the other
have a 90 degree leg. It will be pulling out 1" long 16 ga nails, so it
won't have to be very strong - I'm thinking 1/16" thick (from trials
with a 1/16" thick putty knife).

If it wasn't for the length, I would re-shape the putty knife. Which
suggests brazing or silver soldering the knife on a longer handle - is
that doable? How about a 90 bend in it - I assume that would require
heating to bend, quenching, and tempering?

Thanks,
Bob


I think I would try using a clamp style nail puller on a slide hammer to
remove the nails. Less damage to the tin and probably much faster. I
would probably take a set of vice grips, weld a set of tapered jaws on
the end to grip under the nail head. Then attach that to a slide hammer.

Tin is VERY, VERY easy to damage. BTDT working on a church kitchen
ceiling. Decided that decorative tin is WAY to much trouble...

For that size nail, in a ceiling, you probably don't have to pry it out.
Just grab the thing firmly then chin yourself up on the puller.

Grabbing it, obviously, is still an issue.

--
Tim Wescott
Control system and signal processing consulting
www.wescottdesign.com