On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 13:36:09 -0700, the infamous Gunner Asch
scrawled the following:

On Thu, 18 Mar 2010 21:58:50 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

OK, from what Ed & Tim said, I do want something harder than mild steel,
so that it won't "yield" as soon as mild steel would.

As to heat treating facilities, well, minimal - maximum heat capability
is propane forge. Obviously no automatic temp control.

As to what I'm making: it's for taking down tin ceilings. The ceilings
will be salvaged, so the specifics of the tool are needed to minimize
damage. The bar needs to be about 16" long, to reach over the back of a
24" tile. It needs to have a long taper, coming to a thin edge, to work
under the nails without distorting the tin. One edge needs to be 3/4"
wide to fit into a nailing space. One end will be straight & the other
have a 90 degree leg. It will be pulling out 1" long 16 ga nails, so it
won't have to be very strong - I'm thinking 1/16" thick (from trials
with a 1/16" thick putty knife).

If it wasn't for the length, I would re-shape the putty knife. Which
suggests brazing or silver soldering the knife on a longer handle - is
that doable? How about a 90 bend in it - I assume that would require
heating to bend, quenching, and tempering?

Thanks,
Bob

http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=553310

Are you pointing out how many pry/crow/nail-bars there are in
existence, mon?

Bob, how about trying a shingle ripper? Throw a pair of vise grips
around the end of the flat at the handle and you have yourself a pry
bar for tin ceiling tiles. Why reinvent the wheel?

--
Adults are obsolete children. --Dr. Seuss (Theodore Geisel, 1904-1991)
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