Bob Engelhardt wrote:
OK, from what Ed & Tim said, I do want something harder than mild
steel, so that it won't "yield" as soon as mild steel would.

As to heat treating facilities, well, minimal - maximum heat
capability is propane forge. Obviously no automatic temp control.

As to what I'm making: it's for taking down tin ceilings. The
ceilings will be salvaged, so the specifics of the tool are needed
to minimize damage. The bar needs to be about 16" long, to reach
over the back of a 24" tile. It needs to have a long taper, coming
to a thin edge, to work under the nails without distorting the tin. One
edge needs to be 3/4" wide to fit into a nailing space. One end
will be straight & the other have a 90 degree leg. It will be
pulling out 1" long 16 ga nails, so it won't have to be very strong -
I'm thinking 1/16" thick (from trials with a 1/16" thick putty knife).

If it wasn't for the length, I would re-shape the putty knife. Which
suggests brazing or silver soldering the knife on a longer handle - is
that doable? How about a 90 bend in it - I assume that would require
heating to bend, quenching, and tempering?

Thanks,
Bob

Sounds a lot like the beekeepers little pry I have . They use it to loosen
the frames in a hive , and except for the length fits your description .
Have you looked at the "wonder bar" flat prybars ? They also fit your
description ...

--
Snag
"90 FLHTCU "Strider"
'39 WLDD "PopCycle"
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