Not having seen your shop, I don't see why you would have any problems.
You are right about the 240v being, essentially, two 120v lines. Unlike
120V, which has a Hot, Common and Ground, the 240 has (or can run on) 2
Hot and a Ground/Common. ( But then so can/does 120V. If you are old
enough, you remember when all plugs only had two prongs.) While your
"could" split a 120V line off your 240V, I would not do it. You
mentioned you had 120V inside the shop, just run it to your current 240V
box (having run the 240v line, of course). You can do this by merely
tying another length of Romex cable to your existing outlet and running
it to the outside box, replacing the 240v socket, which you have already
moved inside, and weatherproof cover plate with ones for a 120v socket
and "bingo!"

As for your lighting - the more the better, I would definitely upgrade to
6, or maybe even 8 4' fixtures.

You mentioned "Code." That depends on where your live. Here in Alabama,
such mods are very common WITHOUT an inspection. However, for those of
you who live in more governmentally restrictive and union influenced
states, check with your local woodworkers for their advice. (Going to
the local government will invariably give you a "YES" answer, whereas
your woodworking buddies will tell you the truth. ;-) )

For what its worth.

Deb



On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 03:21:15 -0400, Bill wrote:

Please excuse my top-posting here. I just wanted to mention that I went
back and reread all of the responses I recieved to my post to the
current thread a month ago and I am actively trying to incorporate some
of the suggestions that were made into my shop design. I'm even
learning a bit about electricity...who would have guessed that a 240v
line is powered by two 120v lines! : )

I've got a 240v line on the outside of the brick garage (previously used
by an RV owner). I'd like to flip the line around for use on the inside
and put 120v instead on the outside. I'm confident about the former,
the latter I'll do if the outlet fixture sizes are compatible enough.
Haven't done my homework on that yet as the idea just occurred to me a
few days ago.

I will surely need to take down the wallboard on the uninsulated wall on
one side of the garage for the sake of the electrical improvements. The
side which has our kitchen on the other side surely has insulation,
other electric, plumbing?,etc., behind it. I am less enthused about
"messing" with that wall. I'll have to give that more thought.

My current interior 220v outlet is currently pretty close to the floor.
Does the electrical "code" cite a minimum for that?

BTW, I currently have 3 36" neon lamps..I think I'm going to have 6.
Plugs in the ceiling would be convenient..

Thanks for listening,
Bill


Bill wrote:
At my site linked to below is a almost-to-scale model (pdf and
SketchUp) of the 20' by 20' garage
shop I am trying to assemble, as viewed from the omitted garage door.

Ignore the water purification system in the corner ; ) The workbench
design and tools are mostly accurate only to size. The BS has a mobile
base (not shown), the TS will get one too.

Besides for the 240V outlet on the one wall, there is 120V outlet on
each wall (I think
I should check and see whether they are wired on one circuit).


You need more outlets. The more the better but at least 3 per wall IMO
- I hate cords strung everywhere. At least two circuits, more better.

The TS in the center is good but you need power for it. As I said, I
hate cords strung everywhere so the outlet for my TS is in the ceiling.
There are both 240v and 120v. Yes, a cord hangs down but at least it
isn't always getting stepped on.

Be sure you have at least eight feet in front of and behind the TS.

You'll undoubtedly be adding bench top tools which implies more benches.
When I build same I incorporate electrical outlets into them so that
other tools or adjacent benches will have conveniently placed outlets.

You need an area to store stuff...sheet goods, lumber, work in progress,
etc.