Originally I had the chain too tight. I thought maybe the groove in the
sprocket were caused by that. I'm adjusting it properly now. Oil is
properly flowing to the chain.

DanG wrote on 12/25/2009 :
Wayne, I'm not sure what the question is. Yes, chainsaws get hot, the chain
expands, it requires tightening the blade several times while out working.
No, there is no requirement to change a chain until it is dull. As long as
it is making sawdust it is fine. Most chainsaw blades are filed so they are
"safer" and don't take large bites. This is controlled by the height of the
rakers. A chain might be sharp, but not taking very large chips that will
require filing the rakers down lower - some pros keep the rakers quite a bit
lower to have a more aggressive chain.

When tensioning the chain, hold the blade up and tension until the chain has
slack, but the drive links don't come completely out of the blade slot on the
bottom of the chain. It is quite normal to have gouges, nicks, and grooves
in the drive sprocket. Make sure you are spraying a small bit of oil while
cutting - it helps clean, cool, and lube the chain.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Wayne" wrote in message
...
I have a chainsaw where the chain wants to not stay in the bottom of
the blade. There were some notches (2 sets) in the drive gear/sprocket
(clutch hub) so I replaced that. I figured once it moves over to the
outboard notch, the chain wouldn't stay in the blade.
Once a motorcycle chain stretches, it will wear out the sprockets
faster. The chainsaw chain stretches like crazy compared to a
motorcycle. The chain is driven differently on the chainsaw though.
So like on a motorcycle should the chain be replace when the sprocket is
replaced?

The saw worked fine with the chain out of the blade. I do have a groove
in the plastic cover that holds down the blade.

Thanks,
Wayne D.