The blade needs to be parallel to the near edge of mitre slot.
The fence should taper away from the mitre slot by about 1/16 inch.
The Forest rep (at the woodworking show, says the outfeed of the
fence, at the blade, shoud be .003" further from the blade than at the
infeed edge of the blade. The blade should not cut on the up side, or
burn the wood.
Align the blade to the table first,
Dan

2003 15:17:37 -0800, "Jay" wrote:

I don't have a grizzly saw, but you will have to, most likely, adjust the
saw to parallel to the fence when you get it home. After that, it should be
fine and you will need to tune it every once in a while after that. My 2
cents.

"Tom Murphy" wrote in message
. com...
Hi Everyone,

I've done my due diligence with a Google search, but since I'm so new
to this world I'm not sure I understand what I'm reading.

Okay, to the point...

I'm considering the purchase of a modestly priced table saw such as
the Grizzly 1022 series. What is a reasonable expectation for accuracy
of the standard fence on a quality machine, specifically with regard
to it being parallel to the blade?

I will not be doing super precise work so I'm less concerned about the
width scale, but in my opinion, a table saw fence is useless if it
does not reliably clamp to parallel within a few hundredths of an inch
over the length of the table.

Am I going to have to buy a top-end fence to get there? I truly feel
that if I have to manually adjust the angle of the fence for every
set-up, then I might as well stick with the circular saw for my
current work.

This is a great group. Thanks for helping this newbie along.

Tom Murphy


Colorado Springs, CO
My advice may be worth what you paid for it.