"mm" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 10 Dec 2009 14:14:04 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


But ultimately, this pos is just a 4.5" angle grinder, with a toothed
blade.
$19 from HF.

Perhaps you didn't notice that this thing has two blades turning in
opposite directions. That's a bigggg difference from an angle
grinder, and maybe a big difference in performance too.

First, how could one miss this? The infomercial bleats about this almost
non-stop.

Second, note that unless one is plunge cutting *straight down*, one blade
executes a conventional cut, and the other a "climb" cut. This *immediately*
(at least in principle) poses a challenge to the anti-kick/grab claim. Also
the fact that these two blades are cutting two different swaths of material
(albeit directly adjacent) poses a challenge to this claim.

Altho this would have to be tested, I can see a number of situations where
this anti-kick claim becomes handicapped -- IF it is significant to begin
with -- for example, in thick, tough material, and as per the above.
The only thing those spinning blades truly neutralize is angular momentum --
the gyroscope effect.

I'm betting that in a truly objective test, you might find one or two
trivial scenarios where this thing might have an advantage -- like mebbe in
cutting thin unsupported branches/rod with an unsupported saw. Haven't seen
any tree-cutters with this thing on their belt, tho.

I was hoping someone could identify *useful* situations where this thing
actually proved worthwhile.
And THEN try to justify cost/benefit ratio....

Didja see, btw, how a *chain saw* was in that pile of saws they wanted you
to throw away, cuz of the dual saw?? With it's approx. 1" depth cut??
goodgawd....


It seems to me it would make the kerf bigger but make the cut easier
to control.

You noticed the kerf thing!
Not a big deal, but basically double kerf is double the heat, effort,
blade-dulling -- and material waste. Which is all moot, given how little
most people would use this thing.
Indeed, one of the considerations in sawing is to use the thinnest blade
that will accomplish the task safely,without breakage.

Remember that stunt in the beginning -- the guy cutting himself out of that
flimsy diamond-plate box?
First, I wonder if that was even 1/8" material.

Second, my $40 7 1/4" circular with its $5 carbide blade proly coulda cut
that opening in 1/4 the time, with a much better cut -- iirc, notice they
didn't show closeups of the cut? Dudn't matter, cuz they'd be lying anyway.
I'll bet a real demo would have that cut look like someone went at it,
blind, with a chainsaw -- or an axe.

I made sliding covers for m'truck out of 1/8 diamond plate, but had it
sheared. I have some leftover somewhere, and when I find it, I'll set it
aside to eventually do a pass with a circular saw.
If it cuts aluminum anywhere *near* now my crappy Craftsman 10" RAS cuts 1"
alum plate, I'll think I was cutting balsa.

Utter fraud, imo.
I don't believe ANY fire dept uses these things -- with a 1" depth of cut???
Gimme an effing break.
Uhhhh, hey, this lady is burning up, WHERE'S THE EXTENSION CORD??????

What fire depts DO use are these gonzo gasoline-powered chop/abrasive saws.
--
EA, loving Merka more and more.


AND, just how useful is an angle grinder with a toothed blade? visavis a
regular circular saw?