Greg G. wrote:

I think Morris is playing around with "kerf width" jigs.
Parts A(x) are used solely as kerf width "standards" to set the
distance of the pin registration hole of the jig.

Bingo!

I could be misunderestimating the jig, but it seems like it would
produce rather small pins for a box joint. Seeing as how I can throw
together a 1/2" or 3/4" box jig in a few minutes using a dado blade, a
couple of scrap oak parts, and the mitre gauge, this seems to
primarily be an exercise in "doing it my way." Or I could be
absolutely, positively wrong and he has found Nirvana! ;-)

Somewhere between. I originally wanted to make lap joints larger than
the KM-1 (I have one on order) can handle, but I was impressed with the
simplicity of its principle of operation. When I watched the Bridge City
video, my reaction was "Of course! Why haven't I been doing that?".

As discussed previously, I have a wobble dado blade and I'm too cheap to
spend for a real stacked dado set - and I picked up on the "kerf width"
paradigm.

For both of my simple jigs, I can use the wobble dado to make the cuts
shown in Figures 1 and 5 (and Figure 7 and 8 of the box joint jig) to
produce satisfyingly precise joints.

(Note that in making the box joint jig, the cut-off from Fig 6 is glued
into the slot cut in Fig 7 to ensure exact finger spacing.)

It's not exactly nirvana, but it comes close because it's quick and easy
to make, wonderfully thrifty, and awesomely accurate.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/