On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:34:27 -0800 (PST), coloradotrout
wrote:

On Nov 11, 4:45Â*pm, "Kerry L." wrote:
"coloradotrout" wrote in message

...





So caulk here,

http://i36.tinypic.com/332cci1.jpg

That small gap between the trim board and the aluminum ( the first gap
you see going left to right) ?

What kind of caulk?

I want to use the absolute best product for this. Â* Would clear
silicone be OK? Â* GE Silicone II ?

Should I spead a 1" diameter patch over the nails, especially this
one..
http://i34.tinypic.com/9ktdoj.jpg

The roofing cement that I have is Black Jack 2172 Asphalt roof
patch.

If you look closely at this pic..
http://i38.tinypic.com/22xcte.jpg

It seems like the nail goes through the flashing. Â*These are the nails
right below that window all along the top row of shingles.

Follow Rico's advice.

Â*I would not use Silicone either, even if it says paintable. I have seen
Silicone used on nail heads, chimneys, & wood trim. Silicone appears to
have a problem with heat or UV rays or the combination of the two. Once it
starts to fail, you might as well grab an end, and just tug. It comes off
rather easily.

You do not need to make a patch any larger than the area you absolutely
need to cover.

I'm not a fan of Black Jack, but if that is what you have, might as well
use it. It's not like you're going to ruin the job. The roofer already took
care of that. Black Jack dries out too quick, the oil properties are not
long lasting. Just my opinion of course.

Looking at this picturehttp://i38.tinypic.com/22xcte.jpg, it appears
there is flashing under the shingles. Unless my eyes are deceiving me, I
see what looks like 4" galvanized between the butt joints of those
shingles. That row of shingles should've been worked under the flashing.

Sometimes you will have exposed nails, like the last 2 nails for ridge cap.
Or, _sometimes_ to hold existing flashing down. But, never leave any nails
exposed where the elements can penetrate. Â*I see you have exposed fastener
heads on the step flashing, near the corner of the dormer. Goodness, those
nails shouldn't even be there. Make sure you dab every visible nail head,
kinda smear it around. Don't forget to drive the nails b/4 dabbing. You
could pull them, but might open up another can of worms.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Give me a couple of roofing cement recommendations please. Even if I
have to, I'll shop another place besides Lowes and HD. Lowes had the
BlackJack. HD stocks Henry I think. On that photo you reference --
exactly -- I took that photo to show the shingle atop the flashing and
that nail has to be going through it. That's what caused me to start
looking around and thus the other photos. I'm not liking this a
bit. The house was built in 2000. I'd sure like to get 20 years on
the roof. I might have to take an annual trek atop with a bucket of
snot.
You won't get 20 yeaers on the roof. We had a 25 year roof installed
on our house and it needed replacement in 13 years. And it WAS
properly installed. We didn't have any leaks, and didn't loose any
shingles in wind storms, but there were areas that had lost most of
the "chips" and places where the shingles were cracking - so we
replaced it while there were no leaks and the weather was good.