On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 11:03:08 -0800 (PST), RicodJour
wrote:

On Nov 11, 12:57Â*pm, coloradotrout wrote:
So caulk here,

http://i36.tinypic.com/332cci1.jpg

That small gap between the trim board and the aluminum ( the first gap
you see going left to right) ?

What kind of caulk?

Lexel makes an excellent caulk that is paintable, clear and durable.
http://www.sashcocontractor.com/Home...ent/Lexel.aspx

I want to use the absolute best product for this. Â* Would clear
silicone be OK? Â* GE Silicone II ?

No. Do not use silicone caulk on anything that will be painted.
Paint won't stick to it and you'll be very sorry when it comes time to
repaint.

Silicone II IS paintable.

Should I spead a 1" diameter patch over the nails, especially this
one..http://i34.tinypic.com/9ktdoj.jpg

The roofing cement that I have is Black Jack 2172 Asphalt roof
patch.

All roof cements are pretty much the same. Karnak is the more common
pro brand around here, but what you have is fine for a temporary
repair.

If you look closely at this pic..http://i38.tinypic.com/22xcte.jpg

It seems like the nail goes through the flashing. Â*These are the nails
right below that window all along the top row of shingles.

CT, this is what I was talking about when I was begging for the
additional pictures. You do not have a roof-snot curable problem. As
a bandaid, sure, put some on that nail head - all of the nail heads
while you're at it. Collect some of the colored roof granules from
the gutter or scrape some off of a spare shingle. After you dab a bit
of roof cement on the nail heads, sprinkle some of the colored
granules on and lightly press them into the cement. It'll help hide
things. In your case it's not so critical because you really should
be fixing what is ailing your roof, and that's what Kerry told you a
bit earlier.

Just as it's very difficult to waterproof a basement from the inside,
it's really tough to make a roof tight from the top layer. Water is a
sneaky ******* and it will find it's way around the little barriers
you throw in its way.

My suspicion that the roofer (hack) nailed through the flashing turned
out to be correct. Flashing should not be penetrated by nails if at
all possible, and it's always possible to find a way to prevent
penetrating it. What should have been done is the apron flashing (the
flashing that is below that window) should have been longer, exposed
and the front/lowest edge should have been turned under on a sheet
metal brake (called hemming - and it stiffens the edge of the flashing
and keeps it straight and neat, and prevents capillary action).

If the flashing is done correctly it will be very neat, and color
coordinated flashing should be used so it would be hardly noticeable
against the roofing. The window itself is a major concern as I would
bet dollars to donuts that the apron flashing did not wrap up and over
the bottom framing of that window opening. That is the only way to
prevent a leak with a window that is sitting on the roof.

You have a decision to make, and it is basically do you want to hire
someone to straighten out the flashing/roofing/window problems, which
could run into some serious change, or to stick bandaids on the
problem and live with a recurring leak situation in your house. Your
house is pretty new - the leaks won't diminish over time, and the
repeated repairs are just as likely to make things worse as better.

Here's a link to a copper site that has good info on flashing:
http://www.copper.org/applications/a...s/dormers.html
Aluminum is a little different, but not much. If a potential
contractor doesn't see the benefits of how that link shows flashing to
be installed, then he does not know what he is doing, so keep looking.

The concealed cleats are an excellent way to keep flashing in place
without penetrating the flashing with nails. The hems and other
interlocks conceal the fasteners and keep the flashing in place and
tight against the roof. What your house suffered was someone who cut
some corners and threw in some nails to keep the flashing flat. It's
like trying to lose weight by cutting off some toes.

Here's another link showing how flashing is supposed to be done -
watch the long link, you may have to cut and paste into your browser
address bar:
http://books.google.com/books?id=uiE...0apron&f=false

R