"charlieb" wrote in message
...
diggerop wrote:

snip


Charlie, thanks for once again sharing your thoughts, it's very much
appreciated.
I have answers to some of the points you raised, although in reality, it's
no more than conjecture on my part at this stage.

If, on the other hand, you will glue up panels wider than 16" or 24",
made up of edge joined boards - you CAN cut the dovetails on the
boards BEFORE glue up. If you save a cut off from the first pieces
you can use them as spacers for doing the second boards and so
on.

Certainly possible with any jig I would imagine. My personal preference has
always been to edge join, dress, then cut the joints. I'd like to continue
that where possible. My logic in doing that may not be unassailable, however
it is what I prefer.


There are two earlier versions of this type of router table based
dovetail jig - the Katie Jig and the Keller Jig. All of them require
an Above the Cutter Guide Bearing - which makes the bits - the
consumables of routed dovetail and finger joint jigs - more
expensive.

Not prohibitively so. I normally use CMT, which are similarly priced to
Gifkins. (Here at least, you may have a more competitive market in the U.S).
The difference is about $10 between bits that have bearings and those
without. (About the same price as an Akeda guide bush.) So, if I wear out
two bits per year, I'll be spending $20 more than I otherwise would. Not
going to lose sleep over that.



Note the qualifier "can" in the "can be extended considerably with
care."
Also note the qualifier "with care". I'd want to know what I'd HAVE
TO DO
in order to meet the "can" and "with care" qualifiers.

One method, - Attach the template to a wooden block, clamp the block to the
workpiece, route from the top. (As some other similar types do.)

I have to ask. Are you intending to use this jig to cut dovetails
for the sides of TALL blanket chests? Why is width capacity
over 25" so important?

One of the things I've long thought about doing, is building large a tool
chest to replace the one I have at present. I would like to use dovetails
for every joint. It's dimensions will be in the region of 80 x 50 x 40, -
(in inches.)
One of my considerations with any device, is can I make it do what I wish to
do, or am I constrained by that which the design allows me to do. I prefer
the former, where possible.

No bushes or adaptors required on router. (Router bits have
bearings.)

Those are inexpensive relative to router bits with bearings
ABOVE the cutting edges. And the guides don't wear out
nearly as fast as router bits dull.

True, but then the router bits dull at the same rate, bearing or not. I
would anticipate getting at least one sharpening before I replaced it. As
I said above, the difference in net cost to me, is minimal.


Can do variable spaced dovetails (with spacer shims)

Not sure how the shimming works, but in general, having
to shim is a PITA - and more little things to keep track
of.


Same principle as you suggested at the beginning of your post, - (using an
offcut to index.) Shims do the same thing, different combinations giving
various offsets.

Templates have tail and pin on opposite sides. Once the tails
are indexed, the pins are automatically indexed as well.

I suspect that "automatically" is actually qualified -
probably
that "can" and "with care" implied if not stated.

After studying the design, watching the video and reading a number of
reviews, I am confident that
the indexing will work exactly as stated. As with any cutting operation,
care certainly needs to be taken in setup and execution.

The Akeda would cost me almost $1000 landed here in
Australia. The Gifkens package with everything will cost me
around $1300 delivered.

From looking at the Gifkens, it's a much simpler jig so the
extra cost is a mystery to me.

Gifkens appears to me to be what I believe is referred to in your country as
a "Mom & Pop" operation. Relatively small operation, no economies of scale.
He has patented his device here and the US, which I imagine means he has
significant costs to defray on a relatively small turnover.I sincerely doubt
that he is becoming rich from selling these jigs, expensive as they are.
Perhaps he could do with a different business model and increase volume to
reduce costs, which may benefit customers, but on the other hand , may not
ultimately do much for his bottom line.
For me, the value in the Gifkens is in what I perceive it will do for me,
rather than the percieved dollar value of the jig materials and
construction.

Does not do half-blind dovetails.
If you're going to do drawers, half blinds are a must -
unless
you're going to add an overlayed front to the drawers,
which
kind of negates the value of dovetails.

Every drawer I've built, including remodelling the kitchen, has had a false
front. I don't feel that the inability of this jig to do half blinds will
concern me, whereas it might be a major concern for others.


The other concern I have with the Gifkin, after watching the video
is that the Show Face is always facing OUT. And that means you're
clamping against the Show Face. I'm not sure I'd cant to use a
C-clamp pressing on the show face of my box.

The Jig in the video has now been superseded by a new model, which is
functionally the same but is slightly more sophisticated overall.
He is now also supplying a pair of Bessey clamps which appear to have
relatively soft faces. If marking was to be a concern, I would use a thin
softwood scrap as a buffer, which is my normal practice when clamping
finished surfaces.


Time will tell if I've made a good decision or not : )

Take good notes - and report back after you've used the jig
for a couple of projects. And have fun!


I certainly will : )


Diggerop