diggerop wrote:
snip
I have decided that for my main intended purpose, - (through dovetails on
large boards,) the maximum width capacity of the Akeda would be a limiting
factor. In all other respects, it would do all I required and more.
You've got access to, and can afford boards that are over 16" wide -
or
over 24" wide - and will be working with boards of these widths
regularly
in the future? If that's the case, the price of your stock will far
outweigh
the price of whatever dovetail jig you decide on.
If, on the other hand, you will glue up panels wider than 16" or 24",
made up of edge joined boards - you CAN cut the dovetails on the
boards BEFORE glue up. If you save a cut off from the first pieces
you can use them as spacers for doing the second boards and so
on.
I've decided on a "first generation" jig, primarily to accommodate wider and
longer boards. Similar to the one at this URL.
http://www.gifkins.com.au/
There are two earlier versions of this type of router table based
dovetail jig - the Katie Jig and the Keller Jig. All of them require
an Above the Cutter Guide Bearing - which makes the bits - the
consumables of routed dovetail and finger joint jigs - more
expensive.
These are the pro's and cons as I see them at this stage:
Pro: Can handle wider and longer boards than many systems. Gifkens gives
a standard width/length dimension of 1m x 300mm, but states that
this can be extended considerably with care.
Just for the non-metric folks 1m x 300 mm is about
39 3/8" by a bit over 11 3/4". I'm gonna guess that
they've got the length and width reversed and the
1m (39 3/8"I is the Length of the board. So the WIDTH
of the board jig capacity is under 12" - less than even
the 12" dovetail jigs out there in the U.S. market, most
of which are 16" and 24" width capacity.
Note the qualifier "can" in the "can be extended considerably with
care."
Also note the qualifier "with care". I'd want to know what I'd HAVE
TO DO
in order to meet the "can" and "with care" qualifiers.
I'd also be concerned with holding 12" or wider boards in this router
table and guides dovetail jig type. If the board being routed moves
- AT ALL - you're joint fit will suffer.
I believe one option would be to route with a hand-held for larger dimensions.
I have to ask. Are you intending to use this jig to cut dovetails
for the sides of TALL blanket chests? Why is width capacity
over 25" so important?
Can be used on a router table. (I have two, - can use one for
pins, one for tails.)
Regardless of which jig you use, having two routers is almost
essential since the two bits' depth of cut will determine how
well the dovetails fit. Once you get each bit set correctly
for the thickness of the stock you're working with (more about
THAT in a minute) - you DO NOT want to be swapping bits out.
No bushes or adaptors required on router. (Router bits have
bearings.)
Those are inexpensive relative to router bits with bearings
ABOVE the cutting edges. And the guides don't wear out
nearly as fast as router bits dull.
Excellent visibility.
The bit is following the guides - so seeing where the
bit is cutting doesn't make any difference.
Can do variable spaced dovetails (with spacer shims)
Not sure how the shimming works, but in general, having
to shim is a PITA - and more little things to keep track
of.
Simple device and intuitive setup and operation.
I'm certain you believe that NOW. Check back with us
AFTER you've used the jig - successfully.
Australian manufacturer. Spares should be easier to source.
THAT can be a significant point. Stuff shipped between
the US and Oz can involve a month or more - and shipping
costs ain't cheap either.
Templates have tail and pin on opposite sides. Once the tails
are indexed, the pins are automatically indexed as well.
I suspect that "automatically" is actually qualified -
probably
that "can" and "with care" implied if not stated.
Can do finger joints.
Don't know about the LEIGH, but the AKEDA will do through
and half blind dovetails AND finger/box joints.
Con: More expensive.
The Akeda would cost me almost $1000 landed here in
Australia. The Gifkens package with everything will cost me
around $1300 delivered.
From looking at the Gifkens, it's a much simpler jig so the
extra cost is a mystery to me.
Does not do half-blind dovetails.
If you're going to do drawers, half blinds are a must -
unless
you're going to add an overlayed front to the drawers,
which
kind of negates the value of dovetails.
Now about Set Up. The depth of cut of the two bits is the THICKNESS
of your parts - plus a smidge (it's better to cut the dovetails too
deep
and have some excess to take off on the ends of the pins and the
tails
- than to have them too shallow and have to plane down the faces of
the front and sides of the "box" (assuming it's a drawer. If it
isn't,
add planing down the face of the back as well).
The other concern I have with the Gifkin, after watching the video
is that the Show Face is always facing OUT. And that means you're
clamping against the Show Face. I'm not sure I'd cant to use a
C-clamp pressing on the show face of my box.
And speaking of clamping - how are you going to clamp a part
that's 24" wide - or wider? Wide boards tend to cup. Sure you
can clamp near the edges - but that won't be near as good as
clamping acrossed the entire width.
Time will tell if I've made a good decision or not : )
Take good notes - and report back after you've used the jig
for a couple of projects. And have fun!
charlie b