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fftt fftt is offline
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Default Contractor hit a wire while nailing up moulding in kitchen

On Oct 12, 7:33*pm, "Shaffer" wrote:
Had a guy come in to help put up wood moulding in the kitchen. *Must have
hit a wire becaue it blew a breaker.
He pulled the nail out (small nail) and hammered it in elsewhere. *Flipped
the breaker back on. *Said don't worry about it.

Now I lie awake at night fearing its a fire hazard.

Is it?




Post some photos of the location; overall shots & some closeups


I own a 1930 house & have taken apart, restored / rebuilt most of
it.

Was the original K&T (knob & tube) replaced? Did some do it
correctly or just jury rig in some Romex (NM)?

I think I ansered my own questions...I think it would be rather
difficult to short a K&T run with a single brad. SO it must be
rewired with romex such that a single brad shot would create a short.

Shorting a knob & tube system with a nail gun fired finishing nail or
brad would be kinda hard to do if:
1) the proper length fastener was used
2) wires were / are properly placed.

I wouldn't "worry" about it but I'd make a mental (or written) note of
it, so when (if) problems happen oyu can know where to look.


How big (diameter & length) was the fastener? I hope he picked a
resonably sized nail otherwise he's kinda the cause of this mishap.

Brads & finishing nails don't need much more than 1" penetration into
the "true" receiving member.....the timber beyond the drywall.

For a 1/16" (16 gage) brad ....3/4" penetration is a bit small, 1
1/2" is a bit too much .....1" or so it just about right.

So when picking fastener length I shoot for about 16 fastener
diameters into the receiving member (not including the drywal) but I
also consider the over penetration issues on plumbing & wiring. I
tend to pick the shortest nail that will do the job

cheers
Bob