In article , Tim W
writes
David J
wibbled on Monday 21 September 2009 11:33

On Mon, 21 Sep 2009 09:30:45 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

RubberBiker wrote:
Kingspan/celotex, or kingspan/celotex-backed plasterboard.

http://www.celotex.co.uk/Products/Ce...Celotex-GA3000

http://www.celotex.co.uk/Products/Ce...Celotex-PL3000

Jablite is cheaper, and probably adequate for a garage.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions here - Jablite is quite cheap.
Any idea how that material can be fixed to a vertical surface?

David J

Siroflex PU foam drywall adhesive - an expanding foam with low expansivity.
I'm not sure if it would attack EPS (jablite) but I'm happy to try a bit
for you.

Otherwise, screws/nails and *big* washers (like 30mm+ big).

Or surface it off with ply and screw the ply though the EPS into the wall.
Jablite is good in compression. If you use heavy ply this would give you
the advantage of being able to fix shelves (upto a point) to the ply,
especially of the ply is supported along the bottom edge.

(Better for shelf fixing) - batten the wall out, infill with jablite and fix
ply to battens. You now can fix heavy shelving to the battens if required.

Certain tile adhesives will stick passably to EPS too - including Mapei
kerabond (I've tried) so a dot'n'dab approach might work too.

Or look out for "2nd grade" celotex (I have some Ballytherm - same stuff,
few dints, but just as good from any practical POV). Same fixing methods
apply.

Added tip: As the garage is a draughty space, make sure there is no path
for the draughts to pass behind the insulation, negating its effect. My
preferred choice would be to foam up any gaps the sides and top of the
sheets and tape the joins between sheets, probably just with duct tape
for this kind of job. My pref is also to leave a small unsealed gap at
the bottom of each sheet in case of moisture ingress or flood so that it
can be seen and escape.

So Tim, was 'S' your maiden name ;-)
--
fred
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