I DON'T notice any obvious marks unless I rush a piece through on the
first pass. I am just repeating what I've read about guys doing; taking
a pass with a plane before glue-ups. Then I got to thinking that how
flat is the surface gonna stay if I get the results like I got with
tinkering around with a small plane.

After all is said and done, I think I'm gonna order the smoother, but
not for edges. I want something to tweak a board to EXACT length when
the TS gets me within 5 thous and I want it within .002 or better. An
example of when I could have used a very fine length adjustment was when
I edged my desk. I didn't want mitered corners, so I cut the side
edging to exactly the width of the desk top, hiding the end grain with
the front edging. I could NOT sand or machine the front edge flush,
because I used a shaper to put detail on all the edging before attaching
them to the desk. So I couldn't overlap and sand or plane to even out
any discrepancies.

dave

dave

Charlie Self wrote:

Bay Area Dave asks:


Chris, you understand my dilemma exactly. If I get a smoother (sorry, I
had misspoken earlier when I referred to a block plane) as my first
quality plane (Veritas $160) I was wondering if I could smooth a power
jointed edge to perfection. The edge would already be flat, but the
object of further work would be to remove machining marks, as you noted.


Why is your power jointer leaving machining marks? And a jointer plane would do
a better job of smoothing out your rough machining. It's made for that work.


Charlie Self

"Criticism may not be agreeable, but it is necessary. It fulfils the same
function as pain in the human body. It calls attention to an unhealthy state of
things." Sir Winston Churchill