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Phil Kangas[_3_] Phil Kangas[_3_] is offline
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Default Freehand grinding of Lathe bits


"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
snip---

Question for you Harold. What can the HSM do to recover

such
a
diamond wheel other than the white stick that comes with

it?
Got any
tricks to reclaim? The first one I bought has been

abused,
not the second
one......;) I'd be nice to fix the first.
phil kangas


My only experience extends to the dressing stick, Phil.

A lot depends on
what they've done to the wheel. If it was run dry, and is

heavily loaded,
and dulled by having ground steel, but runs true, you may

enjoy perfect
success using the stick. What it does is attack the

matrix, releasing the
dull diamond and exposing new. The problem is, it

shortens wheel life
considerably, so you can't use it routinely. That's

what's wrong with
"clever" guys that think they know more than the folks

that have done the
research. I've never disputed that a diamond wheel will

cut steel--but I
know beyond doubt that it does so only briefly, and at

considerable loss to
the wheel.

If your wheel runs out of true, and has been badly abused

that way, you may
have some success mounting it such that you can rotate it

slowly, with the
back running dead true, then run a grinding wheel against

the diamond wheel,
barely making contact. Assuming it's a resinoid bonded

wheel (the choice
for brazed carbide, by the way), you may succeed in

removing enough of the
matrix to true the diamond wheel. Be careful, for some

are only 1/16"
thick when new, while others are 1/8". When you break

through the matrix,
what you have left is a piece of aluminum that is worth

nothing more than
scrap. I would use the grinding concept ONLY if the wheel

is badly out of
true.

Hope this helps, Phil.

Harold


Thank you very much for your input, Harold!
phil