"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...
snip---

Question for you Harold. What can the HSM do to recover such
a
diamond wheel other than the white stick that comes with it?
Got any
tricks to reclaim? The first one I bought has been abused,
not the second
one......;) I'd be nice to fix the first.
phil kangas


My only experience extends to the dressing stick, Phil. A lot depends on
what they've done to the wheel. If it was run dry, and is heavily loaded,
and dulled by having ground steel, but runs true, you may enjoy perfect
success using the stick. What it does is attack the matrix, releasing the
dull diamond and exposing new. The problem is, it shortens wheel life
considerably, so you can't use it routinely. That's what's wrong with
"clever" guys that think they know more than the folks that have done the
research. I've never disputed that a diamond wheel will cut steel--but I
know beyond doubt that it does so only briefly, and at considerable loss to
the wheel.

If your wheel runs out of true, and has been badly abused that way, you may
have some success mounting it such that you can rotate it slowly, with the
back running dead true, then run a grinding wheel against the diamond wheel,
barely making contact. Assuming it's a resinoid bonded wheel (the choice
for brazed carbide, by the way), you may succeed in removing enough of the
matrix to true the diamond wheel. Be careful, for some are only 1/16"
thick when new, while others are 1/8". When you break through the matrix,
what you have left is a piece of aluminum that is worth nothing more than
scrap. I would use the grinding concept ONLY if the wheel is badly out of
true.

Hope this helps, Phil.

Harold