On Fri, 14 Aug 2009 19:26:12 -0400, "Colbyt"
wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
.. .

Thanks, but does that make sense, that I get power at the screws?
(118-119 for one pole, 117 for the other, and 237 for both)

With the breaker off disconnect the wires where they enter the water heater.
Turn the breaker back on and see what you have there. The reading should be
about the same if not exact as what you have at the screws.

A ruptured element can send the entire load to ground. A bad thermo or
whatever inside the heater can distort the readings.

If you have 220 or 237 coming out of the wires at the heater then you know
the problem is within the heater. Sadly some new parts fail faster than
older ones so don't assume they are good because they are only six months
old.

For the benefit of others do post back your final results in the same
thread.


Colbyt


That's what I had done previously. I got 0 (2.5 v.) at the wires. I
detached them from the wires going into the heater, and tested the
wires coming from the wall. So, it seemed like the only issue was
whether testing at the screws was accurate, or if the wires might be
loose from the breaker out.