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John Rumm John Rumm is offline
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Default Router - and rebating

Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
John Rumm wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
John Rumm wrote:

If you go the rebate route, it one of those jobs that you can do in
a number of ways. The fast solution would be a pair of non through
cuts on a table saw (or possibly just one if the blade kerf is wider
than the amount you need to remove.

That's probably what I'd do - and hope that no-one from H&S is
watching when I remove the guard and riving knife to be able to do
non-through cuts.

You can fit a splitter in place of the riving knife.


I could possibly make one, but I doubt whether there's an off-the-shelf
splitter to fit my saw - which is one of these http://tinyurl.com/ls6hab
(suitably re-engineered to make it work!)
In my case, the guard actually bolts onto the back of the riving knife -
which sticks up a long way above the table so that the wood *has* to pass
either side of it and not over the top.

What does a splitter look like? Is it a bit like a riving knife, but without
the guard attachment, and only sticking up by slightly less than the blade?
I guess what I need is to get a spare riving knife and saw a chunk off.


A splitter can be as simple as a fixed protrusion that sticks up behind
the blade. However, a riving knife with the guard support removed would
be the best bet - that will allow non through cuts without any
difficulty. The only thing you can't really do with a riving knife on
are plunge cuts and cove cutting.

Having said all that, for non-through cuts, I can't see that you actually
*need* a splitter. But I suppose if I had one, I could do *through* cuts
without the guard. Maybe that's the thing to do - convert the riving knife
into a splitter and throw away the guard. I *think* I can contrive not to
cut too many fingers off!


Having the pair would probably be best - riving knife and guard, and
knife on its own.

--
Cheers,

John.

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