On Jul 11, 4:04 pm, Tom Watson wrote:
I've done similar things in the past and used solvent based Kilz to
hold back the tannin bleed and keep the knots from weeping.
Tom: ready for another long explanation? *chuckle*
Only because I know you actually read folks responses.
Water based KILZ is a good choice for this. It will hold back a lot
of bleed through color, but my personal experience has been that cedar
may still "amber" a bit if it wants.
I get around this by choosing a color that will accept the amber
without changing the appearance color to drastically. I am not
suggesting to paint the wood red or green. For example, instead of
painting the wood bright white, choose something with a little tan in
it like a dark ivory. Everyone that doesn't see the can will think it
is plain white, regardless of the actual color. And on a sunny day...
no one will notice.
Thing is, I'd like to spray this coating and do not want to run a
solvent based finish through my airless sprayer.
My attempts to spray water based KILZ through my sprayer have ended in
tragedy. After a call or two to KILZ folks, tech support told me "it
wasn't the best spraying material" and told me I would be better off
with their The zinc oxide used as a stain blocker in KILZ is actually
ground much less fine than the ZO or ceramics used as blockers and
solids in paint.
You gun and equipment will not like the WB KILZ at all and you will
have clogs, desegregation of solids (DAMHIKT), much too rapid drying
and terrible spraying characteristics.
"A friend of mine" just had to try it in his gun and almost never got
it all out.
Would like to know if anyone has experience using the water based Kilz
product on cedar and knots, and what the results were.
It hasn't been 100%, but good. My experience has been on (painted)
fence repair and cedar deck.
So, just a couple of suggestions from the gallery.
IF I am to use WB KILZ, I apply it with brush and roller. First, I
caulk in even the tiniest of cracks with good acrylic caulk. On the
bigger knots, I even skim a super thin coat of cauIk across the knot
with my finger, making sure I leave the original appearance of the
knot behind. The caulk works much better than the KILZ at blocking
the color seepage, but has the benefit of holding the knot in place as
well when the wood begins to shrink.
I spot all the knots with a slather of material applied with a cheap
brush. If I see them bleed through in an hour or so, I hit them
again.
I use a 6" or 8" "weenie" roller in a throw away tray and roll the
surfaces with the material leaving a really thick coat behind. Any
featured profiles that cannot be rolled get the brush. I try to leave
behind a dry coat of 3 - 5 mil (or better) when finished on all
surfaces.
I use the same basic technique when using regular KILZ, too. If you
are doing a dozen pilasters or so, you will probably be well ahead of
the game time-wise by not setting up a spray area, prepping the
product, and not cleaning up your equipment when finished. When I am
finished, I may or may not keep the brush, but the rollers and pans go
in the trash.
I have changed my preference in primers and stain blocker to the
Zinnser line. I can spot coat knots with the WB stuff, then come back
and shoot their BIN from my compressor powered cup gun. BIN is
shellac based with some pigment, but my cup gun shoots it out like
glass, unthinned with a 1.4 mm tip. My primer gun is a cheapie low
air consumption 20 oz gravity feed from HF that works like a champ.
The BIN cleans up easily very from the gun and equipment with
anhydrous alcohol.
If you have some of the newer growth cedar that is extremely porous, I
would suggest you look at the Sherwyn Williams Pro Block exterior
rated line. It is roll and brush only, but when I thinned it to see
how much solid material was in it (I used it to seal oak cabinets in a
kitchen and it filled most of the woodgrain!) there was so much solid
material in it it actually dried to a crust in the bottom of my test
jar.
I use the same brush and roll method I described for WB KILZ when
applying, but like the results of the SW product much better for its
filling effect. It seems (no empirical evidence) to adhere better
than the KILZ products, too.
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pdf/...tion-guide.pdf
Robert