On Mon, 15 Jun 2009 21:27:44 +0100, Dave wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
,
NT wrote:
Solid rivets are inserted into the hole and hammered flat, with the
workpiece resting on an anvil or similar. This is a much slower process
than blind riveting, and requires access to both sides of the hole. The
method has been in use for many centuries. These rivets are usually
copper or steel.

The final appearance is a flat disc or a domed head.

Can be countersunk both ends too.

If you do this, make one side a normal depth countersink and then other
side between a half to three quarters deep.

It's worth mentioning that a special tool is best for forming the domed
head with small rivets - think it's called a 'set'. Also has a hole in
it the size of the rivet to assist in getting both parts of the work
mating properly - if this is not done it effects the strength of the
joint, as well as looking unsightly.

The ones that I have come across and used were in pairs for each diameter,
as you say, one had a hole to tighten the gap between the 2 intems to be
rivetted and the other, if you got the total rivet length right would make
the hammered side a nice round dome

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I've got one somewhere (bought years ago for a special job) which is a
one-piece tool. One end, roughly oval shaped, has two holes side by side.
One is a deep hole to go over the rivet shank for 'drawing up' and the
other shallow domed hole is for the actual setting of the rivet. It's only
useful over a narrow range of rivet sizes limited by the diameter of the
deeper hole.

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Talking about domes, the heads of rivets come in 3 shapes.

First is a snap head which is almost a half ball and the second one has
a mushroom shaped head. The countersink rivets come in all sorts of
angles from 60 to 120 degree angles and can have a crown on that can be
made flat after the rivet has been set.

Dave

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