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Harold and Susan Vordos Harold and Susan Vordos is offline
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Default Sweat soldering ball valve


"Glenn Lyford" wrote in message
...
I have used both silver bearing (3-1/2%) and non-leaded solders---made by
Harris. I highly recommend them over the others, especially Oatey, which
I
found to fill and run poorly.


I found that I can get an acceptable joint with the Oatey stuff with
silver in it, but their tin-antimony no-lead stuff works too hot for a
regular propane torch (it might be fine with acetylene, it's not been
worth my time to find out).
--Glenn Lyford


If you haven't tried the Harris Stay-Brite, I recommend you give it a go.
The first control panel I built for my hydronic heating system was for the
shop. I used the Oatey (silver bearing) solder for that and had a real
struggle with the stuff. My second purchase was the Harris solder, with
which I made the distribution manifolds. It worked so much better that I
ordered a third roll so I could complete the panel for the house, which is
now finished. I'm sold on the stuff. Truly better than the Oatey.

Also, the Harris Bridgit seems to flow and fill better than the Oatey I used
for general plumbing. I have a 1" main, then it branches out to 3/4" and
1/2" pipe, so it's been tested on all sizes. Could be my technique, but I
didn't like the Oatey at all.

I am using a Turbo Torch for all my joints. I'm soldering up to 1-1/4" pipe
and valves with the thing. Haven't tried MAPP, but I can't imagine much of
an improvement over the Turbo Torch. Excellent little torch.

Usual disclaimer---I am not affiliated with Oatey, Harris or Victor (makes
the Turbo Torch).

Harold