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[email protected] clare@snyder.on.ca is offline
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Default stain or varnish or...

On Mon, 04 May 2009 13:56:53 -0400, Paul Oman
wrote:

hr(bob) wrote:
On May 4, 10:47 am, "DGDevin" wrote:

Ed Pawlowski wrote:

And be careful what kind of varnish or clear top coat you put over
what kind of stain. I recently managed to put my foot in the paint
can (so to speak) putting clear polyurethane over oil-based
stain--oops. Paint sounds like a better idea unless for some reason
you want some grain showing through.

I've done that hundreds of times, as have tens of thousands of others.
What was the problem?

It turned into a blotchy milky film, when I mentioned it to someone at the
local Woodcraft he said he'd seen similar results before. The humidity
wasn't high, I let the Minwax oil stain dry between applications and let the
last one sit for a couple of days before putting on the Lawrence-McFadden
poly. Of course with my generalized woodworking ignorance there could well
be other factors I'm unaware of (that's usually a safe bet).


The easiest thing to do after sanding is painting, That way you have
no problems with the various absorption rates for the stain in the
different parts of the old wood.

----------------------------------------

Being in the epoxy business, I've seen the same. Think one needs to let
the stains (oil or water) dry/cure for more than just a few days (say -
guess - 1 or 2 weeks) before topcoating with anything.

paul oman

Use a poly stain (all-in-one) finish first, then put a poly spar on
it.