On May 4, 1:56*pm, Paul Oman wrote:
hr(bob) wrote:
On May 4, 10:47 am, "DGDevin" wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:

And be careful what kind of varnish or clear top coat you put over
what kind of stain. *I recently managed to put my foot in the paint
can (so to speak) putting clear polyurethane over oil-based
stain--oops. *Paint sounds like a better idea unless for some reason
you want some grain showing through.

I've done that hundreds of times, as have tens of thousands of others..
What was the problem?

It turned into a blotchy milky film, when I mentioned it to someone at the
local Woodcraft he said he'd seen similar results before. *The humidity
wasn't high, I let the Minwax oil stain dry between applications and let the
last one sit for a couple of days before putting on the Lawrence-McFadden
poly. *Of course with my generalized woodworking ignorance there could well
be other factors I'm unaware of (that's usually a safe bet).

The easiest thing to do after sanding is painting, *That way you have
no problems with the various absorption rates for the stain in the
different parts of the old wood.

----------------------------------------

Being in the epoxy business, I've seen the same. Think one needs to let
the stains (oil or water) dry/cure for more than just a few days (say -
guess - 1 or 2 weeks) before topcoating with anything.

I don't think the amine blush you seem to be referring to is the same
as what happened to DGDevin. Amine blush is due to high ambient
humidity while the epoxy is curing. http://www.epoxyproducts.com/blush4u.html

Minwax recommends an eight hour drying time with their normal stain if
it's topcoated with some of their products and 24 hours if their
Polycrylic topcoat is used.

"CLEAR FINISH APPLICATION:
* After a minimum of 8 hours, apply a clear, protective finish
such as Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane, Minwax® Helmsman® Spar
Urethane or after 24 hours, apply clear Minwax® Polycrylic® Protective
Finish."

DGDevin didn't give any details about what the conditions were,
temperature, whether the door was removed, if the stain was new or
old, etc. There's usually no problem putting a polyurethane finish
over oil stain, and Minwax wouldn't lowball the drying time by a
factor of ten or more. There's no point in them lowballing the drying
time at all.

Minwax has no problem with water-based clear finishes over oil
stains....their oil stains and their clear finishes. If you start
mixing manufacturers all bets are off and you'll have to make some
test samples. From Minwax's site:

"Q: Where can I use Water Based Polyurethane?
Water Based Polyurethane is ideal for use on all interior bare or
stained wood surfaces sincluding furniture, cabinets, doors and
floors. It can be applied over oil-based stains like Minwax® Wood
Finish or Minwax® Gel Stain. It also can be applied over Minwax® Water-
Based Wood Stain wood tones, provided the stain has dried completely."

And this about their gel stains:
"Do not apply a protective clear finish if the last coat of Minwax®
Gel Stain can be removed with a rag moistened with mineral spirits."

R