"Steve McDonald" wrote in message
...

Wrong answer. That does not keep a fault between the neutral and ground
from lighting up the frame of the saw with 110v.

not pleasant...what might cause such a condition?\

Any type of wire fault, such as vibration, wirenut coming loose, part
pincing wire, ect.

You need to have a four
conductor plug and wire, and the white wire on the 110 plug should be
completely separate and isolated from the ground connections of the saw
frame.

So if I connect the white wire from the new outlet to the 220V outlet's
centre pin (neutral), this will essentially put the white wire on the
saw's
frame?

Correct. The saw has two hot wires, and one ground. This ground is all of
the metal on the saw, and is intended to trip a breaker, if one of the hot
legs shorts to the frame. When you use that ground as neutral, whatever
electricity is being used by the 110, is going from the one hot wire,
through the 110 using device, and then back into the frame of the saw.

The ground of the 110 should still be connected to the ground of the
saw.

If I connect the green wire from the new outlet to the metal box of the
220V
outlet will this still cause a problem?

No. That is as it is supposed to be. The problem is using the ground wire
in the saw cord as a neutral. Ground wires are not intended to carry
current. It is not a neutral. It is a ground. There is no neutral in a 3
wire 220 system. One needs to be added.

To be completely right, the receptacle should be wired with 4 wires, all
the
way to the box, with separate ground, neutral, and two hot feeds.



PLEASE do not listen to ranck. What he proposes can be done, it will work,
but if anything else goes wrong, you have removed all safety margins.

A new 4 prong receptacle, a new cord and cord cap can all be done for under
$25 dollars. A life costs much more than that.
--
Jim in NC