View Single Post
  #3   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
Calif Bill Calif Bill is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 128
Default dakota update, the head is cracked :(


"Joe Pfeiffer" wrote in message
...
stryped writes:

Well, i watched them magnaflux the suspected head and it is cracked
between the intake and exhaust valves.

I had a few questions:

1. Can the head be fixed somehow. The machine shop said they dont do
that work.


You'll need to find a shop that does, and ask them. I had a Mitsubishi
(the infamous 2.6L) with a cracked head, and it wasn't possible on that
one; on others, it is.

2. Where is the cheapest place to find a head if I need to do that.
(3.9 v6 magnum)


Local wrecking yard. Second cheapest is distant wrecking yard willing
to pull and ship for you. I've actually had pretty good luck getting
parts for my '78 Newport from wrecking yards when needed. For something
like a cylinder head, that would be my first choice, planning to have it
R&Red before using it (in the case of the Mitsu I mentioned above, they
used a different, incompatible head casting for my year than for any
other, and every one that turned up in a wrecking yard had, you guessed
it, a crack right where mine did).

3. If I have to buy a rebuilt head, is there a problem having one
"new" head and an old head? What if the rebuilt head was milled and
the old one was not? Wouldnt their hights be different?


I think if I'd dug as deeply into the engine as you have, I'd probably
have the other head R&Red too, on general principles. The compression
ratio will be slightly different as you suspect; I wouldn't expect it to
matter (this isn't a race engine, after all), but you could either have
them milled to match or use a shim on the one that's milled more.


Get a wrecking yard head or a rebuilt head. The difference in height is
negligible, and welding of cast-iron heads is problematic at best.